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Curitiba to Morretes

Brazilian Road Trip

 

Birds, scenery and long distances

An amazing start to Brasil in Manaus and around the Amazonian area.  Such incredible birds – although not particularly easy to find and also a fantastic afternoon on the river with Dolphins, scenery and of course birds.  It was really interesting crossing from the white to the black river and feeling the difference in temperature between the 2 rivers.

Another highlight in this area were the 2 bird watching towers, one of which was a long trip down a road that was currently a river,  where we saw the biggest cane toad we have ever seen.

 

Both the towers gave great views of the countryside and amazing birds and monkeys.

On google maps there are Flood Warning signs everywhere – apparently normal for this time of year but the river is lower than usual. Maybe google isn’t always right – what a shock….

I was expecting Amazonia National Park to be far more remote than it was – it never ceases to amaze me these days how quickly these remote places are becoming more populated and worse so full of rubbish.

We went out in the afternoon to a local area for some other birds – unfortunately it was a Sunday and a local swimming hole was full of people and the biggest sound system, not sure I understand going into a beautiful natural spot and then playing this – pity not all the people there wanted to hear it.

In one of our accommodations I went for a swim in the afternoon and the lawn was a carpet of yellow finches – not to be seen again in that area while I had my camera of course.

So many great birds but my favourite has to be the Guianan Cock of the Rock, so very pretty.

Another bird in this area, not so pretty but has such a strange song and shape – plus is hard to photograph is the Capuchinbird.

Going to the next place was initially a flight at 8.30am a quick connection and arriving at 3pm.  That one got cancelled and we were rerouted via Sao Paulo, leaving at 1.30am and taking 2 hours longer overall.  At least we arrived earlier in the day which was a bonus.

Starting our mammoth road trip from Juazeiro de Norte in search of scenery, birds and wildlife we were first surprised that all the villages have cobbled streets, look cute but not that fun to drive or walk on.

The other surprise was that all the service stations (if they sell anything at all) sell alcohol and have bars and people drive up to drink…….  Between that and the crazy mad truck drivers who overtake other trucks up hill on a narrow road with a bend coming up and a double yellow line (thinking they are Ayrton Senna), it is not surprising that Brazil has the 5th largest road death rate per capita in the world.

The first place we went looking for birds was great and even better as we saw an Armadillo – funny creatures.

The next spot was in the unlikely spot of a water park full of tourists – the last known place for an Arapipe Manakin – a shame it is such a beautiful bird but work is going on to try and preserve it’s remaining habitat.

We have come across what we think of as unusual food – things like Chicken bread and Ham bread – different, not bad either.  Also in some supermarkets you have to pay for chocolate and bread separately from other items – very odd.

A couple of interesting things driving around are the country churches, so many designs and in places where there appear to be few people, I did not manage to get pictures of the prettiest ones though.

We got lost at one point and ended up adding  quite a few kilometers to our journey but the good side was that we came across a really attractive river with great rock formations and colours.

Another surprising thing is the fact that a number of National Parks and Reserves all have Eucalypt trees – apparently like Madagascar brought in for timber and paper. Guides call them the green desert because not much lives in them.

Still after 2 weeks can not get over how many trucks are on the road – I think every other person here must be a truck driver.  Going up hill, if following a slow one you can be stuck at 10 km an hour for 15 mins or more.  Most of the main roads are in a dire state with large pot holes everywhere so along with the overtaking people swerve all over the place to avoid holes.  When on slightly smaller roads you still have holes and trucks but also the added goats, cows and horses.  Due to this all our road trips are taking much longer than google or mileage would suggest.

A lovely aspect of Brazil at this time of year is the varying colourful flowering trees, yellow, purple and the most common a bright orange.  The Orange trees are in the thick of the forest so you see a mass of green with orange insets.  Pretty.

On country roads it is still not easy as people on bicycles and motor bikes ride along looking and using their phones – some with headphones.  No idea what is going on around them – crazy.

The scenery is very varied – mostly not that interesting but with a few lovely spots – rocks and waterfalls.

While driving around we have tried to find birds/wildlife on our own with reasonable success but one park we were advised to have a guide for the day.  So far we have been lucky with weather, either fine or short showers.  Of course today after hiring a guide and starting what was supposedly a 2 hour not steep hike turned into an incredible endurance test – very steep, with vines tripping you up and pouring rain only to be at halfway mark in 2 hours and drenched.  We pulled the plug and gave up as wildlife also tends to hide in this kind of downpour.  So slippery on the way down too, getting too old for this. Next day we had been going to go to another park but even though we drove 3 hours south it was still pouring so we skipped that one.

It took 3 days for our only pair of shoes each to dry, luckily it was warm enough while not birding to wear thongs.

We had found out about a Reserve that has a rare bird (only about 40 left in the world) and you can stay there for $20 a night including meals, sharing the house with the researchers.  Good deal.  Amazing place with a tower and lots of trails – did not find the Cherry-throated Tanager though, it is seen on average a couple of times a month so you had to be very lucky.  The park also has 3 endangered mammals of which we saw 1, a fish which we saw and 2 frogs which we did not see. (see pic below)

While there the researchers had a visit from the police at their instigation as a day before we got there they saw some poachers and told them to leave.  The poachers then made some nasty threats.  Must be hard trying to work in saving the wildlife and putting up with that stuff.

The park has recently bought a neighbouring property and from late July (2 weeks after our visit) all guests will stay in the newly renovated buildings there  – and the cost will be much higher so we were lucky with our timing.

One of the birds which is hard to photograph is the Bare-throated Bellbird, the first pictures we got were from a long distance and useless but we were so lucky at another spot to get good views in good light.

A few days with lovely weather pottering around, looking at scenery and taking some walks while heading south to another place where we have a guide.  Guess what – the day we got the guide it rained very heavily all day again – think the universe is telling us not to hire guides.

Below what we should have seen at the reserve in good weather.


Bird in rain when it eased off a bit.

The biggest issue we have had in Brazil is Vodafone,  as the world now needs dual authentification for just about everything you do we have had some frustrating times. Since arriving we have not received the welcome to Vodafone roaming to enable us to get texts.  We checked in advance and it says it works all over the country but nothing.  Then today, driving through the countryside with no town anywhere I finally get the welcome text and Steve did in the next town 6 weeks after arriving in the country.  Must be due to getting nearer to Rio, thank goodness we were getting a bit panicky as stuff that needed doing kept getting put off (banking etc).

We had wanted to visit a particular park to try and see the Golden Lion Marmoset Monkey but this has to get skipped due to the much longer driving times than expected – real shame but at least we have seen some other Marmoset species.

We finally arrive in Rio after another long journey – more accidents and hold ups.  I do not remember ever seeing so many road accidents.  Our first glimpse of Christ the Redeemer is in mist – not so impressive.

There is a market in Rio called the Hippie market – interesting but very touristy.  The funniest stall to my way of thinking was a stall of model things – not my cup of tea.

After Rio we had been going to a park in the North but have decided due to the difficulty in driving long distance that we really can’t do it in the time we have so will stay in Rio a few more days.  Easy you would think but surprisingly for winter accommodation is packed, hardly anything around (except of course highly pricy stuff), we find some not great reviewed cheaper options and request to book – not available (twice), we decide we will have to pay  more for the 2 days and book an instant book one that is pretty pricey only to get an email telling us to cancel as construction work going on. Crazy.  Finally booked one that says no hot water and outdoor shower – although pics show a normal bathroom, it only has 1 review something we would normally avoid.  Will find out tomorrow I guess, after all we can cope with anything for 2 nights.

We booked to go to see Christ the Redeemer on the last day as so far it has rained the entire time but that day is forecast to be sunny.  Of course that was not to be either.  OK in town but after driving up the hill the mist was so thick you could only see the bottom of the plinth he stood on.

Everyone is only allowed 1 hour so we hung around and got at least a view of Christ in the end luckily, but none of the view over Rio.

During this tour, the bus driver drove the wrong way up a one way street and ran a set of red lights…..makes you wonder…  

We only paid for a short tour of Christ only but they joined us with a longer one so we got to go to some other places for free – the cathedral – a very odd modern building,
and the Selaron Steps – packed, might have been lovely with less people.

Of course on driving out of town the next day it was crystal clear and sunny….


On leaving Rio I have never seen so many Frigatebirds – thousands off them, all flying over revolting rubbish filled water – guess it must be good for them. We supposedly had a three hour drive BUT.. roadworks.  We got to a traffic jam, Google said 14 mins delay.  Turned into over 2 hours as they were blasting the rocks up the road.  We were fairly near the front – dread to think how long the queue was by the time we got moving.

A night near Itatiaia National Park to see the waterfalls – (not worthwhile) and the “Brazilian official home to Santa Finlandia” a place called Penedo, a former vegetarian Finish Commune.

Then a couple of stays either side of Sao Paulo before getting to our last National Park for Brazil, Intervales.

A great park, very attractive but we have hit a 2 day cold spell and so not the best – 3 layers and still cold.  The Pousada has no heating so even indoors we are layered and sitting under blankets.  How will we cope with Antarctica….

The funny thing about this park is you must have an official guide with you which is fine but then the day we left Google said our route was through the park – on asking at the office that was correct so we drove through – no guide…..

On to Curitiba for a train journey – supposedly one of the most scenic in the world – and I have to agree it was pretty impressive and a great way to spend a day.


The train takes 4 hours, then lunch and a couple of historic spots including a working model village of the history.


Our last few days are in a lovely Pousada with lots of birds around and a great view of the coast,  pity about the weather as it is overcast, cool and very very wet and lots of gale warnings which did not happen. Each morning our room floor is a puddle as the ceiling leaks – at least it is not over the bed.

And to cap of the journey Vodafone only worked for 3 days then packed up.  I tried to pay a bill in a few different places (like Sao Paulo) where I thought it would work but NO.  Then the bank locks my account for trying too many times.  I can not stand this dual authentification.  Panicky time when have no access to money, cant contact them without getting text messages or you can ring.  Luckily in the end I found a VIOP service online and used that.  Bank answer – ring everytime I want to pay anything.  And of course it is not just banks, but super, qantas etc etc.


BIRD & WILDLIFE IDENTIFIED:

Birds:

Alta Floresta Antpitta
Amazon Kingfisher
Amazonian Antpitta
Amazonian Barred-Woodcreeper
Amazonian Black-throated Trogon
Amazonian Black-Tyrant
Amazonian Elaenia
Amazonian Grosbeak
Amazonian Motmot
Amazonian Plain-Xenops
Amazonian Pygmy-Owl
Amazonian Streaked-Antwren
Amazonian Tyrannulet
Amazonian Violaceous Trogon
American Kestrel
American Oystercatcher
American Pygmy Kingfisher
Amethyst Woodstar
Anhinga
Araripe Manakin
Araucaria Tit-Spinetail
Ash-breasted Antbird
Ash-throated Crake
Ash-winged Antwren
Atlantic Black-throated Trogon
Atlantic Plain-Xenops
Atlantic Royal Flycatcher
Azure Jay
Azure-shouldered Tanager
Bahia Spinetail
Bahia Wagtail-Tyrant
Bananaquit
Banded Antbird
Band-rumped Swift
Band-tailed Nighthawk
Bar-breasted Piculet
Bare-faced Ibis
Bare-throated Bellbird
Barn Swallow
Barred Antshrike
Barred Forest-Falcon
Bat Falcon
Bay-chested Warbling Finch
Bertoni’s Antbird
Bicolored Conebill
Bicolored Hawk
Biscutate Swift
Black Caracara
Black Hawk-Eagle
Black Jacobin
Black Nunbird
Black Skimmer
Black Vulture
Black-and-gold Cotinga
Black-and-white Antbird
Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle
Black-backed Tanager
Black-backed Water-Tyrant
Black-banded Woodcreeper
Black-bellied Antwren
Black-bellied Cuckoo
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck
Black-billed Scythebill
Black-capped Antwren
Black-capped Becard
Black-capped Foliage-gleaner
Black-cheeked Gnateater
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle
Black-chinned Antbird
Black-collared Swallow
Black-crested Antshrike
Black-crowned Night Heron
Black-eared Fairy
Black-faced Antbird
Black-faced Dacnis
Black-faced Hawk
Black-fronted Nunbird
Black-fronted Piping-Guan
Black-girdled Barbet
Black-goggled Tanager
Black-headed Antbird
Black-headed Berryeater
Blackish Antbird
Blackish Nightjar
Blackish Rail
Blackish-grey Antshrike
Black-necked Aracari
Black-necked Stilt
Black-spotted Barbet
Black-spotted Bare-eye
Black-tailed Flycatcher
Black-tailed Tityra
Black-tailed Trogon
Black-throated Antbird
Black-throated Antshrike
Black-throated Grosbeak
Black-throated Mango
Black-throated Saltator
Blond-crested Woodpecker
Blue Dacnis
Blue Ground Dove
Blue-and-white Swallow
Blue-and-yellow Macaw
Blue-backed Manakin
Blue-billed Black-Tyrant
Blue-black Grassquit
Blue-capped Manakin
Blue-cheeked Jacamar
Blue-crowned Parakeet
Blue-crowned Trogon
Blue-grey Tanager
Blue-headed Parrot
Blue-naped Chlorophonia
Blue-winged Macaw
Bluish-grey Saltator
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Bran-colored Flycatcher
Brassy-breasted Tanager
Brazilian Ruby
Brazilian Tanager
Brazilian Teal
Brazilian Tinamou
Bright-rumped Attila
Broad-billed Motmot
Broad-tipped Hermit
Bronzy Jacamar
Brown Booby
Brown Tanager
Brown Tinamou
Brown-bellied Stipplethroat
Brown-breasted Pygmy-Tyrant
Brown-chested Barbet
Brown-chested Martin
Brown-crested Flycatcher
Brownish Twistwing
Brown-winged Schiffornis
Buff-breasted Wren
Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner
Buff-cheeked Greenlet
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner
Buff-necked Ibis
Buff-throated Purpletuft
Buff-throated Saltator
Buff-throated Woodcreeper
Buffy-fronted Seedeater
Burnished-buff Tanager
Burrowing Owl
Caatinga Antwren
Caatinga Cacholote
Cactus Parakeet
Caica Parrot
Campo Flicker
Campo Troupial
Capped Heron
Capuchinbird
Cattle Tyrant
Chaetura sp.
Chalk-browed Mockingbird
Channel-billed Toucan
Cherrie’s Antwren
Chestnut-backed Antshrike
Chestnut-backed Tanager
Chestnut-bellied Euphonia
Chestnut-bellied Seedeater
Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch
Chestnut-belted Gnateater
Chestnut-capped Blackbird
Chestnut-capped Puffbird
Chestnut-crowned Becard
Chestnut-eared Aracari
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
Chestnut-headed Tanager
Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper
Chestnut-tailed Antbird
Chestnut-vented Conebill
Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner
Chimango Caracara
Chivi Vireo
Chopi Blackbird
Cinereous Antshrike
Cinereous Becard
Cinereous Mourner
Cinereous Tinamou
Cinnamon Attila
Cinnamon Tanager
Cinnamon-rumped Foliage-gleaner
Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper
Cinnamon-vented Piha
Cliff Flycatcher
Cobalt-rumped Parrotlet
Cocoa Thrush
Cocoi Heron
Collared Crescentchest
Collared Forest-Falcon
Collared Gnatwren
Collared Plover
Collared Puffbird
Comb Duck
Common Gallinule
Common Pauraque
Common Scale-backed Antbird
Common Squirrel-Cuckoo
Common Tody-Flycatcher
Common Waxbill
Coraya Wren
Crane Hawk
Creamy-bellied Thrush
Crescent-chested Puffbird
Crested Becard
Crested Black-Tyrant
Crested Caracara
Crested Oropendola
Crested Owl
Crimson Topaz
Crimson-crested Woodpecker
Crowned Slaty Flycatcher
Cryptic Forest-Falcon
Curl-crested Jay
Curve-billed Scythebill
Diademed Tanager
Dot-backed Antbird
Dotted Tanager
Dot-winged Antwren
Double-banded Pygmy-Tyrant
Double-collared Seedeater
Double-toothed Kite
Drab-breasted Pygmy-Tyrant
Dubois’s Seedeater
Duida Woodcreeper
Dusky Antbird
Dusky Parrot
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Dusky-capped Greenlet
Dusky-capped Woodcreeper
Dusky-chested Flycatcher
Dusky-legged Guan
Dusky-tailed Antbird
Dusky-throated Antshrike
Dusky-throated Hermit
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin
Eared Dove
Eared Pygmy-Tyrant
East Brazilian Chachalaca
Eastern Olivaceous Flatbill
Elegant Woodcreeper
Epaulet Oriole
Euler’s Flycatcher
Fawn-breasted Tanager
Ferruginous Antbird
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl
Ferruginous-backed Antbird
Festive Amazon
Festive Coquette
Fiery Topaz
Fiery-capped Manakin
Fiery-tailed Awlbill
Firewood-gatherer
Flame-crested Tanager
Flame-crowned Manakin
Flavescent Warbler
Forest Elaenia
Fork-tailed Flycatcher
Fork-tailed Palm Swift
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
Frilled Coquette
Fulvous Shrike-Tanager
Fulvous-crested Tanager
Giant Antshrike
Giant Cowbird
Giant Snipe
Gilded Barbet
Gilt-edged Tanager
Glittering-bellied Emerald
Glittering-throated Emerald
Glossy Antshrike
Glossy-backed Becard
Golden Parakeet
Golden-capped Parakeet
Golden-chevroned Tanager
Golden-collared Woodpecker
Golden-crowned Warbler
Golden-green Woodpecker
Golden-headed Manakin
Golden-sided Euphonia
Golden-spangled Piculet
Golden-tailed Parrotlet
Golden-winged Cacique
Golden-winged Parakeet
Gould’s Toucanet
Grassland Sparrow
Grassland Yellow-Finch
Great Antshrike
Great Black Hawk
Great Egret
Great Jacamar
Great Kiskadee
Great Pampa-Finch
Great Tinamou
Greater Ani
Greater Wagtail-Tyrant
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture
Greater Yellowlegs
Green Aracari
Green Honeycreeper
Green Ibis
Green Kingfisher
Green Oropendola
Green-backed Becard
Green-backed Trogon
Green-barred Woodpecker
Green-crowned Plovercrest
Green-headed Tanager
Greenish Schiffornis
Greenish Tyrannulet
Green-tailed Goldenthroat
Green-tailed Jacamar
Green-throated Euphonia
Green-throated Mango
Green-winged Saltator
Grey Antbird
Grey Antwren
Grey-bellied Spinetail
Grey-breasted Martin
Grey-capped Tyrannulet
Grey-chested Greenlet
Grey-cowled Wood-Rail
Grey-crowned Flatbill
Grey-eyed Greenlet
Grey-fronted Dove
Grey-headed Elaenia
Grey-headed Kite
Grey-headed Tody-Flycatcher
Grey-hooded Attila
Grey-hooded Flycatcher
Greyish Mourner
Grey-lined Hawk
Grey-rumped Swift
Grey-throated Warbling Finch
Grey-winged Trumpeter
Guianan Cock-of-the-rock
Guianan Gnatcatcher
Guianan Greenlet
Guianan Puffbird
Guianan Red-Cotinga
Guianan Toucanet
Guianan Tyrannulet
Guianan Violaceous Trogon
Guianan Warbling-Antbird
Guianan Woodcreeper
Guira Cuckoo
Half-collared Sparrow
Hangnest Tody-Tyrant
Harlequin Antbird
Harpy Eagle
Helmeted Manakin
Helmeted Pygmy-Tyrant
Helmeted Woodpecker
Hoatzin
Hooded Berryeater
Hooded Siskin
Hooded Tanager
Hooded Visorbearer
Hook-billed Kite
Horned Screamer
Horned Sungem
House Sparrow
Ihering’s Antwren
Indigo Macaw
Ivory-billed Aracari
Kelp Gull
King Vulture
Kinglet Manakin
Klages’s Antwren
Ladder-tailed Nightjar
Large-billed Tern
Large-headed Flatbill
Large-tailed Antshrike
Laughing Falcon
Leaden Antwren
Least Grebe
Least Pygmy-Owl
Lemon-chested Greenlet
Lesser Hornero
Lesser Kiskadee
Lesser Wagtail-Tyrant
Lesser Woodcreeper
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture
Lettered Aracari
Limpkin
Lineated Woodpecker
Lined Forest-Falcon
Lined Seedeater
Little Blue Heron
Little Tinamou
Little Woodpecker
Long-billed Gnatwren
Long-billed Woodcreeper
Long-billed Wren
Long-tailed Hermit
Long-tailed Tyrant
Long-trained Nightjar
Long-tufted Screech-Owl
Long-winged Antwren
Magnificent Frigatebird
Magpie Tanager
Mangrove Rail
Mantled Hawk
Marail Guan
Marbled Wood-Quail
Maroon-bellied Parakeet
Maroon-faced Parakeet
Maroon-tailed Parakeet
Masked Gnatcatcher
Masked Tityra
Masked Water-Tyrant
Masked Yellowthroat
McConnell’s Flycatcher
Mealy Amazon
Monk Parakeet
Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet
Mouse-colored Antshrike
Mouse-colored Tapaculo
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet
Moustached Wren
Muscovy Duck
Musician Wren
Nacunda Nighthawk
Narrow-billed Antwren
Narrow-billed Woodcreeper
Natterer’s Slaty-Antshrike
Neotropic Cormorant
Ocellated Woodcreeper
Ochre-collared Piculet
Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher
Ochre-lored Flatbill
Ochre-rumped Antbird
Ochre-throated Foliage-gleaner
Olivaceous Schiffornis
Olivaceous Woodcreeper
Olive Oropendola
Olive Spinetail
Olive-faced Flatbill
Olive-green Tanager
Olive-green Tyrannulet
Olive-spotted Hummingbird
Opal-crowned Manakin
Opal-rumped Tanager
Orange-bellied Euphonia
Orange-breasted Thornbird
Orange-cheeked Parrot
Orange-eyed Thornbird
Orange-fronted Yellow-Finch
Orange-headed Tanager
Orange-winged Amazon
Oriole Blackbird
Ornate Stipplethroat
Oustalet’s Tyrannulet
Painted Parakeet
Painted Tody-Flycatcher
Pale Baywing
Pale-bellied Tyrant-Manakin
Pale-breasted Spinetail
Pale-breasted Thrush
Pale-browed Treehunter
Pale-legged Hornero
Pale-throated Pampa-Finch
Pale-vented Pigeon
Pallid Spinetail
Palm Tanager
Pantanal Snipe
Paradise Jacamar
Paradise Tanager
Parker’s Spinetail
Pavonine Cuckoo
Peach-fronted Parakeet
Pearl Kite
Pearly Antshrike
Pearly-breasted Cuckoo
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant
Pectoral Sparrow
Pelzeln’s Tody-Tyrant
Picazuro Pigeon
Picui Ground Dove
Pied Plover
Pied Puffbird
Pileated Finch
Pileated Parrot
Pink-legged Graveteiro
Pink-throated Becard
Pin-tailed Manakin
Piratic Flycatcher
Plain Antvireo
Plain Parakeet
Plain-brown Woodcreeper
Plain-crested Elaenia
Plain-crowned Spinetail
Plain-throated Antwren
Plain-winged Antshrike
Plain-winged Woodcreeper
Planalto Hermit
Planalto Slaty-Antshrike
Planalto Tyrannulet
Planalto Woodcreeper
Plumbeous Kite
Plumbeous Pigeon
Plumbeous Seedeater
Point-tailed Palmcreeper
Pompadour Cotinga
Purple Gallinule
Purple Honeycreeper
Purple-breasted Cotinga
Purple-throated Euphonia
Purple-throated Fruitcrow
Red-and-green Macaw
Red-and-white Crake
Red-and-white Spinetail
Red-bellied Macaw
Red-billed Curassow
Red-billed Pied Tanager
Red-billed Woodcreeper
Red-breasted Meadowlark
Red-breasted Toucan
Red-capped Cardinal
Red-cowled Cardinal
Red-crested Cardinal
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager
Reddish Hermit
Red-fan Parrot
Red-headed Manakin
Red-legged Seriema
Red-necked Aracari
Red-necked Tanager
Red-necked Woodpecker
Red-ruffed Fruitcrow
Red-rumped Cacique
Red-shouldered Spinetail
Red-tailed Amazon
Red-throated Caracara
Ringed Kingfisher
Rio de Janeiro Antbird
Riparian Parrotlet
River Tyrannulet
Riverbank Warbler
Riverside Tyrant
Roadside Hawk
Robust Woodpecker
Rock Dove
Rough-legged Tyrannulet
Royal Tern
Ruby-crowned Tanager
Ruby-topaz Hummingbird
Ruddy Ground Dove
Ruddy Pigeon
Ruddy Quail-Dove
Ruddy Spinetail
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher
Rufescent Tiger-Heron
Rufous Gnateater
Rufous Hornero
Rufous Motmot
Rufous-backed Antvireo
Rufous-backed Stipplethroat
Rufous-bellied Thrush
Rufous-breasted Hermit
Rufous-breasted Leaftosser
Rufous-browed Peppershrike
Rufous-brown Solitaire
Rufous-capped Antshrike
Rufous-capped Antthrush
Rufous-capped Motmot
Rufous-capped Nunlet
Rufous-capped Spinetail
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Rufous-crowned Elaenia
Rufous-crowned Greenlet
Rufous-fronted Thornbird
Rufous-headed Tanager
Rufous-margined Antwren
Rufous-necked Puffbird
Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner
Rufous-sided Crake
Rufous-sided Scrub-Tyrant
Rufous-tailed Antbird
Rufous-tailed Antthrush
Rufous-tailed Flatbill
Rufous-tailed Jacamar
Rufous-tailed Xenops
Rufous-throated Sapphire
Rufous-winged Antshrike
Russet-backed Oropendola
Russet-crowned Crake
Rusty-backed Antwren
Rusty-backed Spinetail
Rusty-barred Owl
Rusty-belted Tapaculo
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Rusty-margined Guan
Saffron Finch
Saffron Toucanet
Saffron-crested Tyrant-Manakin
Sand-colored Nighthawk
Sandwich Tern
Santarem Parakeet
Sao Paulo Bristle-Tyrant
Sapphire-rumped Parrotlet
Saturnine Antshrike
Savanna Hawk
Saw-billed Hermit
Sayaca Tanager
Scaled Antbird
Scaled Dove
Scaled Pigeon
Scaled Woodcreeper
Scale-throated Hermit
Scalloped Woodcreeper
Scaly-headed Parrot
Scarlet Ibis
Scarlet Macaw
Scarlet-throated Tanager
Scissor-tailed Nightjar
Sclater’s Antwren
Screaming Cowbird
Screaming Piha
Semipalmated Plover
Sepia-capped Flycatcher
Serra do Mar Bristle-Tyrant
Serra do Mar Tyrant-Manakin
Sharpbill
Sharp-billed Treehunter
Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper
Shear-tailed Grey Tyrant
Shiny Cowbird
Short-billed Honeycreeper
Short-crested Flycatcher
Short-tailed Antthrush
Short-tailed Hawk
Short-tailed Nighthawk
Short-tailed Parrot
Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant
Short-tailed Swift
Sibilant Sirystes
Sick’s Swift
Silver Teal
Silver-beaked Tanager
Silvered Antbird
Silvery-cheeked Antshrike
Sincora Antwren
Slaty Bristlefront
Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail
Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo
Slender-billed Kite
Slender-billed Xenops
Small-billed Elaenia
Small-headed Elaenia
Smooth-billed Ani
Snail Kite
Snethlage’s Tody-Tyrant
Snow-capped Manakin
Snowy Egret
Social Flycatcher
Solitary Black Cacique
Solitary Tinamou
Sombre Hummingbird
Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike
Sooty Grassquit
Sooty Swift
Sooty Tyrannulet
Sooty-fronted Spinetail
South American Tern
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet
Southern House Wren
Southern Lapwing
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Southern Tropical Pewee
Southern White-fringed Antwren
Southern Yellowthroat
Spangled Cotinga
Speckled Spinetail
Spix’s Guan
Spix’s Spinetail
Spix’s Warbling-Antbird
Spot-backed Antbird
Spot-backed Antshrike
Spot-backed Antwren
Spot-backed Puffbird
Spot-billed Toucanet
Spot-breasted Antvireo
Spot-breasted Woodpecker
Spotted Bamboowren
Spotted Piculet
Spotted Puffbird
Spotted Sandpiper
Spotted Tanager
Spotted Tody-Flycatcher
Spot-winged Antshrike
Spot-winged Wood-Quail
Squamate Antbird
Star-throated Antwren
Straight-billed Hermit
Straight-billed Woodcreeper
Streak-capped Antwren
Streaked Flycatcher
Streaked Xenops
Streak-throated Hermit
Streamer-tailed Tyrant
Striated Heron
Striated Softtail
Stripe-backed Antbird
Striped Cuckoo
Striped Woodcreeper
Stripe-tailed Yellow-Finch
Strong-billed Woodcreeper
Such’s Antthrush
Sunbittern
Surucua Trogon
Swainson’s Flycatcher
Swallow Tanager
Swallow-tailed Cotinga
Swallow-tailed Hummingbird
Swallow-tailed Kite
Swallow-tailed Manakin
Swallow-winged Puffbird
Tapajos Antpitta
Tapajos Fire-eye
Tapajos Hermit
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl
Tawny-browed Owl
Temminck’s Seedeater
Three-striped Flycatcher
Thrush-like Antpitta
Thrush-like Wren
Tiny Hawk
Tiny Tyrant-Manakin
Toco Toucan
Todd’s Sirystes
Tropical Gnatcatcher
Tropical Kingbird
Tropical Mockingbird
Tropical Parula
Tropical Royal Flycatcher
Tropical Screech-Owl
Tufted Antshrike
Tui Parakeet
Turkey Vulture
Turquoise Tanager
Turquoise-fronted Amazon
Ultramarine Grosbeak
Undulated Antshrike
Undulated Tinamou
Unicolored Antwren
Unicolored Blackbird
Uniform Crake
Uniform Finch
Variable Antshrike
Variable Chachalaca
Variable Oriole
Variegated Antpitta
Variegated Flycatcher
Variegated Tinamou
Velvety Black-Tyrant
Versicolored Emerald
Violaceous Euphonia
Violet-capped Woodnymph
Vulturine Parrot
Wattled Jacana
Waved Woodpecker
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper
Western Cattle-Egret
Whiskered Flycatcher
White Hawk
White Monjita
White Woodpecker
White-banded Swallow
White-barred Piculet
White-bearded Antshrike
White-bearded Manakin
White-bellied Nothura
White-bellied Seedeater
White-bellied Tanager
White-bibbed Antbird
White-breasted Tapaculo
White-browed Foliage-gleaner
White-browed Guan
White-browed Hawk
White-browed Warbler
White-browed Woodpecker
White-cheeked Antbird
White-cheeked Pintail
White-chested Puffbird
White-chinned Sapphire
White-collared Foliage-gleaner
White-collared Swift
White-crested Elaenia
White-crested Guan
White-crested Spadebill
White-crested Tyrannulet
White-crowned Manakin
White-eared Puffbird
White-eyed Foliage-gleaner
White-eyed Parakeet
White-eyed Stipplethroat
White-eyed Tody-Tyrant
White-faced Whistling-Duck
White-flanked Antwren
White-fronted Manakin
White-fronted Nunbird
White-headed Marsh Tyrant
White-lined Tanager
White-lored Tyrannulet
White-naped Jay
White-necked Jacobin
White-necked Puffbird
White-necked Thrush
White-plumed Antbird
White-rumped Monjita
White-shouldered Fire-eye
White-shouldered Tanager
White-spotted Woodpecker
White-tailed Hawk
White-tailed Kite
White-thighed Swallow
White-throated Hummingbird
White-throated Kingbird
White-throated Manakin
White-throated Seedeater
White-throated Spadebill
White-throated Toucan
White-throated Woodcreeper
White-tipped Dove
White-vented Violetear
White-winged Parakeet
White-winged Swallow
Wing-banded Hornero
Wing-barred Piprites
Wire-tailed Manakin
wood-rail sp.
Yellow-backed Tanager
Yellow-bellied Dacnis
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Yellow-bellied Seedeater
Yellow-billed Jacamar
Yellow-billed Tern
Yellow-browed Antbird
Yellow-browed Sparrow
Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher
Yellow-browed Tyrant
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet
Yellow-chinned Spinetail
Yellow-crowned Amazon
Yellow-crowned Elaenia
Yellow-crowned Manakin
Yellow-crowned Night Heron
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
Yellow-eared Woodpecker
Yellow-fronted Woodpecker
Yellow-green Grosbeak
Yellow-headed Caracara
Yellow-hooded Blackbird
Yellowish Pipit
Yellow-legged Thrush
Yellow-legged Tinamou
Yellow-margined Flatbill
Yellow-olive Flatbill
Yellow-rumped Cacique
Yellow-rumped Marshbird
Yellow-throated Flycatcher
Yellow-throated Woodpecker
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker
Zimmer’s Woodcreeper

Butterflies, Moths, Insects etc:
Assassin Bug
Black Witch Moth
Blackened Crescent
Blue-banded Morpho
Clio Crescent
Confusa Tigerwing
Cramer’s Eighty-eight
Claudina’s Tegosa
Dorantes Skipper
Dusky-wing Skipper
Florida White
Giant Silk Moth
Glasswing Butterfly
Green Jumping Spider
Gulf Fritillary
Horned Frog
Jumping Spider
Lemon Emigrant
Mantis Insect
Mangrove Crab
Many-banded Daggerwing
Megalobulimus Snail
Metalmark
Morpho Helenor
Moth Butterfly
Odonata Dragonfly
One-spotted Prepona
Praying Mantis
Red-legged Spider
Rove Beetle
Ruby-spotted Swallowtail
Spider Wasp
Spined Green Stink Bug
Tussock Moth Caterpillar
Velvant Ant Wasp
White-lined Sphinx Moth

Reptiles & Amphibian
Agamid Lizard
Anole Lizard
Bahia Smooth Horned Frog
Brazilian Taraguira Lizard
Calango Lizard
Cane Toad
Giant Ameiva
Green Iguana
Parrot Snake
Snouted Tree Frog
Striped Forest Whiptail Lizard
Three Striped Poison Frog
Tropiurus Semitaeniatus Lizard
True Mussurana Snake

Wildlife
Atlantic Forest Hocicudo
Big-eared Opossum
Black Capuchin Monkey
Black-tufted Marmoset
Blond Titi Monkey
Brazilian Squirrel
Common Marmoset
Crested Capuchin Monkey
Dusky Tiki Monkey
Golden Headed Lion Tamarin (heard)
Greater Capybara
Guianan Red Howler Monkey
Ingram’s Squirrel
Neotropical Otter
River Otter
Rock Cavy
Santarem Marmoset
Six-banded Armadillo
South American Tapir
White-headed Marmoset
Yellow-breasted Capuchin Monkey

 

THINGS TO DO

Parks
Chapada Diamentina is great for hiking and swimming – as well as birdwatching.
Intervales State Park is a great park for hiking, views and birds.
Many other great parks too and if you are into hiking up hill then there are plenty of very challenging hikes.

Town/City
Manaus is a great way to get an introduction to the amazon, take a boat on the river to see the black and white rivers meet.  Watch the dolphins along the way.

A trip to the botanic gardens is a good way to see some birds – especially up the 40 meter tower.
Check out the historic Opera House.

Rio De Janiero – of course a trip to Christ the Redeemer is a must – try for a no cloud day, this tour can be done with other added things like Selaron Steps if you are interested.  Just expect masses of people.  I think maybe best done with an Uber or Taxi at first light before the tours.
Catch up on some different foods – Brazil has great meat and wonderful BBQ restaurants but the food is very monotonous after a while and you need the big cities to get any variety.

Curitiba – Serra Verde Train.  A lovely day out, can be done as a tour or solo if you speak Portuguese well enough.  Great scenery and worth the extra to go in the higher classed old carriages.

 

WHERE TO STAY

Our favourite places
Chapada Diamentina – Hospedagem do Sitio,  great location, lovely gardens with birds and close to park entry for hiking/swimming.
Pousada Cheiro de Mato – near Santa Finalandia, great little cabins and wonderful views.
Refugio das Heliconias – Serra Grande
Canto de Roca Tourismo – Mimoso do Sul

 

 

WHERE TO EAT

Mainly self catering as cost of food is quite dear.
When you need to eat out on the main routes the Truck filled service stations that have a BBQ restaurant are great, really good value and good food.
Many BBQ or steak houses are good but some are terrible and prices vary tremendously.  
The options are normally
1) A fixed price for all you can eat
2) Pay per kilo
3) Rodizio where you spend time and the meat keeps coming round – these are the most expensive but great if you like to eat a lot and try different meats and cuts.

 

COSTS

NATIONAL PARKS:-
Most parks themselves do not have an entry fee but many of the trails require a local guide which can be anything from 40 to 300 R$

FUEL:-

6.58 R$ per litre for petrol on average.

ALCOHOL:-
Domestic Beer in restaurant 10 R$, in a supermarket from 6R$
Spirits in a supermarket from 25 R$ for 750ml bottle

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