LEAVING TANZANIA

Heading back to Kenya through Arusha and to change back to our Kenyan driver Paul.  We will be sorry to say goodbye to Emanuel as he has been a fantastic driver and great guide, he really knows wildlife and birds.  On arriving at the border we crossed into the no-mans land for driver change over – no driver.  We waited, and waited – lucky Emanuel was not leaving us without someone picking us up.  Phone calls and conversations with other drivers there in similar circumstances.  Lots of cross sounding people (hard to tell in another language though).  Eventually a completely different driver turned up – apparently Paul let them down – or at least that is what we got told.  Kennedy did not make a great first impression.  We had now been at the border from 10am till 1.30 and were hungry – he suggested a restaurant and we said no – just stop for some bananas as we did not want to waste park time (our lunch was included but we would miss it by the time we got to hotel).   Anyway he ignored us and drove around town twice looking for a restaurant we were not aware of what he was doing till he stopped.  Anyway we did not eat here and eventually got bananas – another half hour wasted.  From there we drove to Amboseli –but when we arrived Kennedy went at full speed over the park to the other side and took us to a fancy lodge (by now 3.30) and told us to have lunch.  We explained we wanted time in the park but no joy.  So we ate a snack but Kennedy sat down after long chats with other staff to a huge long lunch.  We were then presented with a bill which we refused to pay as we had not wanted to go there and the lunch we should have had was included.  So back into the park but only for an hour as Kennedy said we had to be out by 5.  What a waste of a day, we did not see that much at all, a few birds and mongoose was about it.  

Our accommodation in Amboseli is AA Lodge – huge place, very ornate with lovely grounds. 

Lovely place though and only 3 groups of guests a total of 11 people.

In the evening there was an African Dance which was very interesting – amazing how high they can jump.  I tried but could not get even a fraction of their height off the ground.

Into the park at 6.30 on opening, it is quite a large park but we did not get very far.  We saw large groups of elephants and a few birds but before long Kennedy said we had to leave. 

It took a lot of conversation to get the why.  He informed us that the road to Tsavo was a highway for Tanzanian pirates coming to rob tourists and we had to be at the crossing point at 10am to go in convoy with other vans and armed guards.  Could not really argue with that BUT on leaving the park Kennedy turned away from where we were going and went 10 ks to a service station to fill with fuel and get the van serviced.  This took a while so we missed the convoy anyway.  (All other drivers did this stuff at night and since he was so concerned about time I am not sure why he did not).  The guide tried to get one of the armed guards to escort us – but they basically said tough – we missed the time.

The whole way along the next 80km he was obviously very worried.  His favourite word was PROBLEM, everything to him was a problem.  Still we had no trouble and who knows if it was even a real threat.  On arriving in Tsavo West we thought we would have a lot of time – it’s a massive park with a lot of interesting parts and fantastic scenery.

At the entry there was a lot of discussion between the driver and the guards.  In the end an armed guard got in the vehicle with us.  We stopped at the lava fields which were amazing, and saw rock hyrax’s.  The scenery was stunning.  After this stop though the speed went up and Kennedy drove to the other side of the park 80 odd km with only 2 very reluctant stops when we saw birds. 

By now we are getting a little fed up with this driver as he is wasting all our park times and we can not work out what he is up to.  Anyway he drops the guard off at the opposite gate and then we turn round and go back in – another couple of hours down the drain.  Firstly we went to Mizma springs, a lovely walk and the best part was seeing a Paradise flycatcher – too fast though to catch a photo.

We had a late picnic lunch here and then went on a slow drive to our lodge – missing all the other sites and areas- even though we asked to go to them.

AA Lodge is on a hillside, the setting is stunning with the restaurant overlooking a waterhole.  The cabins were basic but nice with lovely views.  The late afternoon spent in the restaurant was fabulous as herds of elephant and many giraffe came to the waterhole. 

It was really interesting to watch how the giraffe wait till the elephants have finished.  There was also a long display by 2 giraffes doing a mating dance/move thing. They wrap there necks around each other in all sorts of unusual moves.  Also around were Tree Hyrax, Mongoose and plenty of birds.  Not many people staying here either.

When we left the lodge in the morning we went following a Leopard that had just been seen crossing the road, but we could not find it, so off we trekked to Tsavo East back along the road to the same gate he drove all the way to yesterday.  We saw the usual animals and a few birds but it was quite dense along this road so not the best for spotting. 

One of the great things about Tsavo though is the Red Elephants, not found anywhere else in the world. 

Of course they are not really red skinned, just red due to the dust and mud that they plaster themselves with.

Once we left the park we saw the entry into Tsavo East almost opposite – but yet again he did his own thing and drove about 70km into a town called Voi, then he got completely lost trying to find the park headquarters which once he found it was told to just go to the gate.  He is great one for wasting time.  On to our camp – the only visitors again. 

There was no water in the ensuite of one of the tents as the elephants had dug up and broken the pipe so the plumber was working like mad to get it fixed. 

This camp is in the park and that always makes it easier and it was a good location too.  We did an afternoon game drive and had a scarily close encounter with a massive bull elephant that was not too keen on us. 

We could not find any leopards but saw plenty of other animals and lots of birds.

The area is currently in drought and it was very sad seeing the animals scavaging for small areas of water. The drought was much more noticeable in this park. There were only a few very small water holes with many animals using them.

A morning game drive and then off to Shimba Hills, on the way doing a walk down to Sheldrick Falls – with yet another armed guard.  These are beautiful falls and a lovely swimming hole – fairly long climb down and up but the views and birds kept us amused.

The Shimba Hills lodge was stunning, the best place so far.  A kind of tree house with views over a waterhole and lush rainforest.  Yet again another place where we are the ONLY guests – so sad for the local people.

The staff here are also amazing.  We were shown owls asleep in a tree – so hard to see even when pointed out.  Black and White Colobus (which we would also not have known they were there) were also pointed out to us.  Other things just from our room where wild tortoise (small type), Sable antelope, Waterbuck, Water monitor and Fish Eagles. We could just sit on our balcony and watch lots of wildlife.  Fantastic.

Our evening game drive was good with monkeys, baboons, giraffe and Sable Antelope.  There is a stunning viewpoint over the coast and the whole park is very lush.  Some is thick and other parts looked just like a wood in England – with a lot of the same flora too.  While we were there it rained and a mist shrouded the woods, making it even more like England.  So different to everywhere else we have been on this trip.

Our driver tried to drop us in Diani beach – but we had been told we could be dropped at our ferry point to Wasini Island – he did not like this as it was another 50km and yet again it was PROBLEM contstantly.  He also got lost again…..

Although we have loved every minute of this trip we are sick of this complaining driver and the time he wastes so we will not be sorry to see the back of him.

We arrive at the pier (he was in phone contact with the accommodation arranging boat ride to island).  The pier was under repair and it was not at all obvious how we were going to get us or the bags on this small boat a long way below the pier.  Then we saw a set of steps behind a pile of sand – but you had to balance on a couple of inches of concrete on the edge to get to them.  The skipper was nimble though and went up and down with ease even with our bags.  It is only a 15 minute ride to the island as it is not far from the mainland.  The tide was out so he could not get the boat to their pier and had to anchor off shore – we all had to wade in to shore.

Blue Monkey lodge is very basic. The huts are mud and stone and the ensuite is a salt water shower (from a bucket) and a camping toilet but the outlook over the water was great and there was a lovely garden full of plants that attracted birds.

We took a walk into town (no cars or roads on the island) but got totally lost as the whole place is a rabbit warren of mud paths meandering everywhere.  There is one little shop but it does not sell much.  We had bought some food as we knew it would be difficult here (for Steve and I anyway).  Seafood (Crab) or Vegan.

A day trip out to Kisite Reef was great.  On the way out we saw pods of dolphin which we stayed with for quite a while watching them play – they had very young dolphins within the group.

 The colour of the water round the islands was really good and the visibility for snorkelling was good to start, but then the wind got up and the waves got rough so the visibility deteriorated.  Still I had got cold by then so it made no real difference.  There were some great fish and interesting corals.  One of the islands had more birds than island I think there were thousands of them – lots of terns but also other birds but we could not get close enough to identify them.

Off to Diani beach were we are staying in a 2 bedroom self catering cottage on the beach.  It has a lovely large lawn area and is in a great spot.  There are a lot of hornbills, colobus monkeys and small birds around.  The sand is incredibly white and fine and the beach is very long.  A relaxing couple of days here – although not quite warm enough for swimming, it was good to just read and wander.

A tuk tuk got us into town for shopping and restaurants, this is also the first place in Kenya we have seen much in the way of batiks and other tourist stuff for sale.