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Phuket 27 years after our first visit

 

PHUKET

Spot the difference.  Karon viewpoint 1992 and 2019, incredible number of new buildings.  Furthest beach is Karon, then Kata and the closest is Kata Noi.

Wild weather forecast, heavy thunderstorms, flooding and landslides – great start.  Of course like many forecasts it was not that accurate – no landslides or major flooding where we were – plenty of rain though.

As usual in the first days we always pay too much for something. Steve was determined to have a jeep (as he had really enjoyed hiring one back in 1992). Not cheap though as a normal hire car through budget was less than half the price.  So our waste of money in this case was the Jeep hire car.  Given the weather situation this was a daft idea as it was open to the weather.  Every time we went out we had to empty the seats of the puddles so we were constantly wet.  At least it was warm. 

Steve took a couple of days to get used to the mad driving (far more cars on the road now). Personally I am not game to even try –  anything goes, few rules seem to be followed.

It is surprising at how expensive Phuket is now, although part of this is the abysmal Aussie dollar currently.  We used to get 30 – 33 baht to the dollar and now it is down to 20.  Typical, we always seem to go places when exchange rate is against us.

After a few days we found some great eating places with very reasonable prices so that really helped.

HINT – If you can, look at a place before you book as the advertising these days is very clever and many things are very different to expectations from the photos and description. This can result in disappointment or outright arguments.

While we had the car we drove around the island, well at least all of it South of Patong where we were staying.  Some stunning scenery but very quiet in the way of birds and wildlife. We did see a Painted frog in Patong itself, very pretty.  Few birds are around (apart from Myna and Sparrow) but there are many many more butterflies of varying colours and sizes – some bigger than small birds.

A trip to Kathu waterfall provided a good bit of exercise with over 400 steps up.  Great variety of birds here which was exciting.  Walking up the trail, the steps were covered in obstacles – fallen trees and giant spiders across the path to name a couple.  Getting lots of exercise.

Old Phuket is well worth a visit, lovely old buildings and quaint streets.  Easy to lose a few hours wandering around here. Shame that some of the buildings were falling into disrepair.

Leaving Patong we moved to Naiyang Beach, staying at the Touch Green.  Now this was an interesting place.  Having wanted to book one of the bungalows set in the forest but unable to we soon found out why.  Reality was that they were all closed up and falling down, eaten out by termites.  The grounds were full of birds (maybe the ruins actually helped, less people, more natural vegetation).  The swimming pool was set in front of the ruins and next to a large lake.  Stunning.  We saw over 25 species of birds in the grounds.  The hotel was also only a 5 min walk from the beach with some lovely places to eat.  The hotel also had a roof top bar (in ruins), walkways at tree height and large sitting areas at tree height – none of which were maintained, but great to wander and look at the views and birds.


Being more sensible for this part of the journey we had hired a normal sedan for less than half the price of the jeep (and less than one return journey of 7km in a tuk tuk).  We explored the top half of Phuket, going to Tonsai waterfall first.

The waterfall is small (but empty of people) and there is a nature trail of 600m or 2 km if you do all of it.  Of course we planned to do the whole thing.  Anyway firstly we had to find it – after a couple of wrong tracks we found the start and off we trot.  First thing we see is a Pangolin about 1 metre from us.  Amazing, had never expected to see one in the wild so very excited. Unfortunately it was quite dark in the forest and it moved fast so only a very blurry photo that does not even really show what it was.  Seeing it so close though was really great.  Continuing to the junction of longer and shorter trails and start off to complete the rest of the 2km.  After about 200 meters on this trail at the head of another waterfall the trail just disappeared, we tried to find it but it was impossible so back we went.  None of the National Parks are well maintained outside of the main picnic area.

Another waterfall in the top half is Bang Pae. This is a bigger drop than the others and again the nature walk had some obstacles but appeared slightly better maintained than Tonsai.  We saw here one of the areas highlights a Crested Agame Lizard.

There is a Gibbon Rehabilitation Project situated at Bang Pae waterfall – they have done an amazing job and are still doing so.  In the 1980’s there were no Gibbons left in the area, the project started with 2 rescued pets.  Since then they have bred and rescued more and there are now over 30 gibbons and 9 generations living wild in the forest.

Phuket is very hilly – since we have been here we have had so much exercise with all the steep slopes, tracks and steps.  Hopefully this has been really good for our bodies.

Next stop off Phuket to Phang Nga.

 
BIRDS & WILDLIFE:

Patong – Wandering around over a few days

Birds:
Chestnut Headed Bee-eater
Common Myna
Garden Fence Lizard

Grey Wagtail
House Martin

Kathu Waterfall – Early September, 8 – 9.30 am

Birds:
Black Throated Sunbird
Grey Cheeked Bulbul
Red Throated Sunbird

Racket Tailed Treepie
Red Necked Stint
Sun Skink

Botanic Gardens – Early September, 9 – 10 am.

Wildlife:
Many Lined Sun Skink
Millipede

Many unidentified butterflies, bugs and large bees/insects.

Kao Khad Views Tower – Early September, midday 30 mins

Birds:
Grey Rumped Tree swift

Wildlife:
Praying Mantis

Many butterflies and a Medium size unidentified lizard.

Monkey Hill Viewpoint – Early September, Mid afternoon 1 hour

Wildlife:
Long Tailed Macaque

Soi (Street) Dogs.

Kata Noi Beach – Late September. A few days general times

Birds:
Brahminy Kite
Grey Cheeked Bulbul
Scaly Breasted Munia

Khao Phra Thaeo National Park & Tonsai Waterfall – Early September, 7.30 – 10.30 am

Birds:
Orange Bellied Flowerpecker

Wildlife:
Dragon Lizard or Flying Lizard with a blue head – did not manage to ID
Pangolin

The Touch Green, Naiyang Beach – Early September, 3 days general times

Birds:
Brown Throated Sunbird
Chestnut Headed Bee-eater
Common Flameback
Common Iora
Common Kingfisher

Greater Coucal
Greater Racket Tailed Drongo
Green Iora
Muscovy Duck
Mute Swan
Olive Backed Sunbird
Oriental Magpie Robin
Red Wattled Lapwing
White Breasted Woodhen
White Throated Kingfisher
Yellow Bellied Fantail
Yellow Vented Bullbull

Wildlife:
Asian Water Monitor
Red Cheeked Squirrel

Sirinat National Park – Early September, Early to Mid morning on 2 mornings

Birds:
Ashy Tailorbird

Common Hoopoe
Golden Crested Myna
Indian Roller

Pacific Swallow
Pied Wagtail
Spotted Dove
Zebra Dove

Bang Pae Waterfall the other side of Khao Phra Thaeo National Park – Early September, 9 – 11 am

Wildlife:
Blanford’s Flying Lizard
Canopy Lizard
Crested Agame Lizard

 

THINGS TO DO

Parks
 Sirinat – There should be many bird species but it is getting hard to find them.  
 Bang Pae watefall – Nice waterfall walk and interesting Gibbon sanctuary that is doing an amazing job
 Tonsai waterfall – Nice short walk, lost the track on the long walk and had to turn back before going far at all.
 Kathu waterfall – Nice walk but a scramble to get to the top, lots of birds here.
 Botanic Gardens – Small but interesting.

Viewpoints
Karon
Monkey Hill
Promthep Cape
Big Buddah

Day trips to islands

 

WHERE TO STAY

Patong Bay Hill Resort.  1 week free as part of a Holiday Club.  We stayed in a one bedroom apartment with a lap pool outside the door which was great.  Very quiet while we were there in late August.  Free shuttle to town or a 20 minute walk.  Plenty of parking if you have a vehicle.  Great views of Patong.  Clean, modern and comfortable. Would recommend

Villa Versace Residence. 1 week in early September 6000B  not at all like the photos, quite run down, pokey rooms (except number 1).  Lots of steps.  Would not recommend

Sunset Beach Resort. 3 nights Part of flight deal.  Damp, very tired, busy.  Nice location and pool.  OK but better places around.

Kata Noi Resort. 6 nights 6490B. 1 of o nly 2 places to stay other than the resort that takes up the whole beach.  Motel style, good location. OK but will probably change if other building around gets completed.  Would recommend currently.

Blue Pearl Kata Resort. 1 night 893B. Lovely place, reasonable room size, comfortable beds (most places have very hard mattresses).  Pool was tiny but OK for cooling down.  Good location.  Quirky, nice decor. Could easily have stayed longer.  Would recommend

The Touch Green. 3 nights 1920B.  Amazing place for bird lovers.  Motel style rooms on large block.  There were once bungalows but they are falling down and being overgrown by the jungle.  Great grounds to wander around with a lake and lots of jungle.  Pool is lovely. Short walk to Naiyang beach which is very laid back and more like Kata 30 years ago.  Would thoroughly recommend.

 Snooze Inn.  1 night 1000B.  Incredibly friendly and helpful owners, free shuttle to pier.  Motel style rooms.  Would recommend for anyone going to the islands in the morning – or when arriving later in the day from the islands.

 

 

WHERE TO EAT

 PATONG:-
  ICC (Indian Curry Club).  Good food but not cheap, average dish was 250B.
 Restaurant 89, great lunch spot.  Cheap and good food.  We usually ate one 80B dishes between us.  
 Harry’s, great for a western change, amazing burgers but not cheap at 320B.
 11 Thanon Ratuthit Songroipi Road – no name.  Great food at amazing prices, breakfast omelette 15B, main dishes 60-80B
 Street & market food stalls, great food, average 40-50B

SIRINAT NATIONAL PARK:- 
Look Tan, 80-100B. All good, great views over the beach.

KATA NOI:-
Siam Smile.  The best place to eat but can get busy.  120-180B  We ate here everyday and tried many dishes.  All good

KATA:-
Magic Masala.  Excellent Indian but like all Indians here expensive at around 280-350B

BANG PAE WATERFALL:-
Bang Pae Restaurant.  Good food, great location.  Average 100B

NAIYANG BEACH:-           
Sunset Bar.  Good food but a little pricey, average 180B
Beach Stalls – great food, very cheap, average 40B

 

 

COSTS

NATIONAL PARKS:-
        200B each

CAR HIRE:-
         2 weeks from National 400B per day
         Jeep from beach front – 1 week 5000B (very expensive)
         Scooter 200B per day

FUEL:-
         29B per litre

ALCOHOL:-
         120 upwards for a large beer in a restaurant
          60 for a large beer from a supermarket
          Bottle of local whiskey or vodka from supermarket 300

MASSAGE:-
         Average 1 hour oil 300BÂ