PHANG NGA & KRABI AREAS

Adventure awaits with lots of mountains, scenery, waterfalls and hikes.  In 11 days we have climbed more trails and steps than in the last year, resulting in getting fitter (we hope).

The scenery is so stunning though, even just driving around (as long as you can ignore all the wires etc).  We found a local park that not many tourists go to which resulted in our participation in a Thai local selfie with intrepid travellers.  Inside the park had caves, stalactites and stalagmites and was very pretty and was an easy stroll around.  A couple of waterfalls nearby with short but steep climbs up to higher tiers were interesting although not spectacular.

Our accommodation in this area was pretty, from a shared area there were great views of the mountains and the gardens were well planted.

Unfortunately the room was damp and musty and very cramped. We actually left 2 days early in the end as we are too old to sit on a bed all day if it rains.  In the 3 days we were here though we saw a number of new birds, our favourite being a Little Spiderhunter.

Phang Nga National Park was on our visit list – not the islands as we had visited these in 1992 but the mangrove walk and grounds around the headquarters.  When we arrived the mangrove walk said “Sorry for inconvenience” and the gate was locked. But luckily a local told us just to walk round up on the board walk which we did.  Fantastic birds in here and we whiled away a couple of hours walking around.  We came back a second day and they tried to stop us entering but when we said we had been in the day before they let us go……

Weather pattern was different though and it was very devoid of activity but a nice walk anyway. On the other side of the park is a nature walk but the path was at a very odd angle (about 45%) and in bad repair.

Sadly many National Parks are not maintained very well.

A 4 day stay near Emerald Pool (We did not go there as we had been in 2004 with almost no tourists, now it is packed).  The area though is supposed to be great for birding, but the trails are so overgrown. Therefore we were not comfortable going far in alone – plus they were very boggy.  Luckily our accommodation grounds were amazing for birds, dragonflies and wildlife – they sometime have Slow Loris but we did not get to see one.

Travelling further south we managed to get a last minute booking at a hotel on  a beach and luckily had the only cheap(ish) room with a sea view.  We were staying here so we could do the infamous Khao Ngon Nak Nature Trail. Famous for people taking selfies with their legs dangling from a jutting cliff over many meters of fall.

It is known to be a tough hike so you need to start early.  They were not wrong, tough it was 3.7 kms one way and up 360 meters (10% incline average) of goat tracks complete with ropes on the really bad bits.  We were getting tired but onwards and upwards – not to be defeated by a walk/climb.

The views at the top were excellent – but no way were either of us were doing a selfie near the edge.  Photos are taken from a rock that actually slopes down towards the abyss and it was wet and slippery as it had rained all night.

Then of course we had to go down, down and more down – nearly as tough as going up – especially for me with short legs.  The Indian for lunch at the bottom was very much appreciated –we both had wobbly legs by then.

This is not the last of the tough walks.

Walking along the beach in the afternoon we came across an unusual phenomenon (at least to us) of thousands of crabs heading in groups towards the sea.

Anyway moving inland we were booked to stay in a lovely mountainous setting on the edge of a National Park. Stunning but low and behold the room itself was another steep climb up stone steps.  Although this was the most beautiful place we have stayed and the owners were so friendly and helpful we had to leave after one night.  Our bags got infested with ants (that bite) and the bed was so hard neither of us slept a wink.

Back to the coast and some relaxing beach time, but with a day out to do yet another walk.  This one was to the Tiger Cave Temple. Climb up 1260 steps (plus the 30 or so once you get to the top) incline average of 51.5% many steps were 14 inches high – again hard for short legs.

Exhausted by the end but again the views were incredible and there is a feeling of satisfaction to have been able to do it. A highlight being a very pretty Painted Bronzeback Treesnake.

Interestingly on all these walks we have only seen 2 people older than about 30. Both of them on the Tiger trail and one only just starting up and looked as if he would never make it.

A day spent between the sea and the pool with a massage was a great last day in the area. While Carol was having a massage Steve stayed on the room balcony to look for birds (and drinking beer). Steve has an issue with swimmers ears and could not hear properly. Hearing a rustle from behind he grabbed the camera thinking there was a bird only to be confronted by a very angry monkey hissing and growling at him. Quickly scaring it away and attracting some staff who shooed it out of the resort.

An unexpected event meant no sunset – South Thailand along with other places are now covered in smoke from the Indonesian fires.  Krabi schools were being shut and people being issued masks. Visibility is bad and the drive back to Phuket (200km) slow and no longer scenic as you could not see much.  No birding or photography today.