Mountain birding
This story really starts on the border in Costa Rica.
Arriving at the border at the place we had to leave the hire car, there was a barrier. Trying to communicate with the guard about leaving the car when a rough looking person approaches us – or at least Steve (he had his car door open). We think he is trying to help translate with the guard but then Steve gets out as the guy is right in his face. He goes away and a few minutes later we realise Steve’s phone is gone from car door pocket (he was using it only a few minutes before). Old phone, annoying but not drastic we think – at least it did not seem it at the time.
Very confusing border, walked to it but then had to walk quite a way back to a different place to get one stamp, then another place but eventually all sorted and our local driver (from the accommodation) is waiting the other side to take us up into the mountains. Love the local transport – very horsey in Costa Rica and Panama.
What incredible scenery, lots of trees covered in pink flowers helped make it really special.
The accommodation was at the back of a local house with amazing views over Baru Volcano (when not covered in cloud). We had planned to do a day trip up but it was too long and costly so chose to just enjoy the views instead.
The property was full of so many birds, butterflies and other wildlife and the family were just lovely (food was pretty good as well).
Nothing around for a long way so the stars at night were also pretty special nearest shop was 30 minutes away.
While there the fruit & veg shop turned up, a little different.
We now work out that it is not that simple when a phone gets stolen. Steve is trying to set up his spare old phone that holds our Australian sim cards but for some reason not getting the dual authentication text messages to be able to do so. Try another way it says – but the only option is a message to the stolen phone……
They drop as back into David to catch the bus at the end of our stay. Lovely looking new bus sitting there.
Over 1 hour later we are told the bus is broken (air cond) and another bus coming.
This bus older and tattier but at least we get going – for 20 mins.
Then a stop that gets longer and longer. Out we get to find a little old man is manually changing the big bus tires, once done they realise another problem and take one back off again. One tyre is completely down to the metal – dangerous so glad it is coming off. More waiting and eventually a 3rd bus turns up to take us (at least a bit better than then 2nd one).
Nice little shop selling delicious pastries which was required as no food packed for the original 2 hour trip. The driver though was so very slow, unusual for a bus driver but he drove way slower than conditions and other drivers.
Getting to Santiago 2.5 hours late we go straight to the backpackers hostel, only to find here our room has no key as apparently the last guest left with it. Just have to trust everyone when we are outside. Not a bad place very reminiscent of old backpacker hostel’s. Nice Artwork.
On to Anton Valley, an amazing scenic twisty journey. The town is inside the caldera of an old extinct volcano and has amazing flora and vegetation along with mountains all around. The houses and blocks are quite large and very well planted just giving a lovely look to the town.
Lots of tourists here though as it is a popular hiking and biking spot. First afternoon there is a massive storm and we end up without power for about 20 hours. Comes back on the second evening only to go out again the next morning.
Walking up an area called Chorro Macho early morning was full of birds, especially a number of hummingbird species. The most amazing part though was when a large animal leapt across the road from right to left and then seconds later another animal went from left to right. The first being a Tayra and the 2nd a Jaguarundi – neither of which we had ever heard of before.
Not my pics, just so you know the animals.
It was like an episode from a David Attenborough program. Apparently they are not often seen so we were really lucky. Whilst walking along the track a cyclist disturbed a 2 metre long snake which headed towards us – a bit scary and had to take a step back to avoid it, told after that it was non venomous. (Not my pic either, we were too busy avoiding it to take any)
Our bus to the city was a small local bus, not the longer distance type of before. This driver was an absolute maniac driving incredibly fast round very twisty mountain roads. Still not arriving on time as being a public holiday for Easter so much traffic was heading out of the city. Should not matter as we were going in but the road was adjusted so that there were 3 lanes used coming out and only 1 in – and then an accident blocked that lane.
Drop our bags and off to a shopping mall (not our favourite pastime) to get a new phone as we think the issue might be that the old spare one is only 2 and 3g and nothing here is.
At least we can go out on balcony and look at the birds and wildlife to break up the frustration.
Still not working when setting it up so a few long chat’s to Vodafone with no result yet. One technician said the phone sim has not been registered to the number on their books – hard to believe as it worked in Costa Rica and in Australia. Luckily we don’t need to do any banking or anything as stuffed without the access to text messages. I hate this dual authentication – wish they would all use email, so much easier and more reliable.
Great artwork around the hotel too.
The internet where we are staying is not great and could be the problem so back to the shopping mall to try there, no luck so sit in the food court and have another long chat with Vodafone and this time we get someone a little more useful and finally get the new phone working.
But in all this Steve had forgotten to take his reading glasses to shopping mall so he was using mine. Get back to accommodation and neither of us has them and neither of us can remember the sequence and what happened. Back again (20 min drive each way) to buy more reading glasses, what a pain.
Interesting guest at the hotel (part of the wedding party).
Staying on 8th floor of hotel gives us a different view of birds and monkeys, amazing to see thousands of Vultures and birds of prey migrating over several days. They just kept flying past for hours, incredible. Not that the picture really shows it but if you zoomed out to show the thousands they just look like dots.
Gamboa Rainforest and Pipeline Road (built by US in case canal got blocked) are famous birding and wildlife spots and it was no exception for us, Howler Monkeys, White Faced Capuchin and Sloth along with so many bird species. We also went to area called Ammo dump ponds, apparently dug by US so water on hand in case of fire in Ammunition dump nearby.
A round of golf was next on our list – ages since we have played and not an easy course but great fun. Pity about the scores though…..
Back up to Gamboa to find more birds reasonably successful but a long hot walk back.
Next – our friend arrives and we go snorkelling.
BIRD & WILDLIFE IDENTIFIED:
Birds:
Anhinga
Baltimore Oriole
Bananaquit
Barn Swallow
Barred Antshrike
Barred Forest-Falcon
Bay-breasted Warbler
Bay-headed Tanager
Bicolored Hawk
Black Vulture
Black-and-yellow Tanager
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck
Black-breasted Puffbird
Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant
Black-cheeked Woodpecker
Black-chested Jay
Black-crowned Antshrike
Black-faced Antthrush
Black-faced Grosbeak
Black-headed Saltator
Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher
Black-striped Sparrow
Black-striped Woodcreeper
Black-tailed Trogon
Blue Dacnis
Blue-and-white Swallow
Blue-black Grassquit
Blue-black Grosbeak
Blue-chested Hummingbird
Blue-grey Tanager
Blue-headed Parrot
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Bran-colored Flycatcher
Bright-rumped Attila
Broad-billed Motmot
Broad-winged Hawk
Brown Violetear
Brown-capped Tyrannulet
Brown-throated Parakeet
Buff-breasted Wren
Buff-rumped Warbler
Buff-throated Saltator
Charming Hummingbird
Checker-throated Stipplethroat
Chestnut-backed Antbird
Chestnut-capped Warbler
Chestnut-headed Oropendola
Chestnut-sided Warbler
Chiriqui Foliage-gleaner
Choco Screech-Owl
Clay-colored Thrush
Cocoa Woodcreeper
Collared Aracari
Collared Trogon
Common Gallinule
Common Name
Common Potoo
Common Tody-Flycatcher
Crested Caracara
Crested Guan
Crested Oropendola
Crimson-backed Tanager
Crimson-crested Woodpecker
Crimson-fronted Parakeet
Crowned Woodnymph
Dot-winged Antwren
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Fasciated Antshrike
Fiery-billed Aracari
Flame-rumped Tanager
Forest Elaenia
Fork-tailed Flycatcher
Garden Emerald
Gartered Trogon
Giant Cowbird
Golden-collared Manakin
Golden-fronted Greenlet
Golden-hooded Tanager
Great Crested Flycatcher
Great Egret
Great Jacamar
Great Kiskadee
Greater Ani
Great-tailed Grackle
Green Hermit
Green Heron
Green Honeycreeper
Green Shrike-Vireo
Green-crowned Brilliant
Grey-breasted Martin
Grey-capped Flycatcher
Grey-chested Dove
Grey-cowled Wood-Rail
Grey-headed Chachalaca
Grey-headed Tanager
Grey-lined Hawk
Hepatic Tanager
House Wren
Indigo Bunting
Isthmian Wren
Keel-billed Toucan
Laughing Falcon
Lesser Elaenia
Lesser Greenlet
Lesser Kiskadee
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift
Lesson’s Motmot
Lineated Woodpecker
Little Blue Heron
MacGillivray’s Warbler
Magnificent Frigatebird
Mangrove Swallow
Masked Tityra
Mealy Parrot
Melodious Blackbird
Mississippi Kite
Mistletoe Tyrannulet
Mottled Owl
Mourning Warbler
Northern Black-throated Trogon
Ocellated Antbird
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher
Olivaceous Piculet
Olive-striped Flycatcher
Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush
Orange-billed Sparrow
Orange-chinned Parakeet
Orange-collared Manakin
Painted Bunting
Pale-billed Woodpecker
Pale-vented Pigeon
Pale-vented Thrush
Palm Tanager
Panama Flycatcher
Pheasant Cuckoo
Philadelphia Vireo
Piratic Flycatcher
Plain-brown Woodcreeper
Plain-colored Tanager
Purple Gallinule
Purple-crowned Fairy
Purple-throated Fruitcrow
Red-capped Manakin
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Red-eyed Vireo
Red-legged Honeycreeper
Red-lored Parrot
Red-throated Ant-Tanager
Roadside Hawk
Rose-breasted Grosbeak
Rosy Thrush-Tanager
Ruddy Ground Dove
Ruddy-breasted Seedeater
Rufescent Tiger-Heron
Rufous Motmot
Rufous-and-white Wren
Rufous-breasted Wren
Rufous-crested Coquette
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Russet Antshrike
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Saffron Finch
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant
Scaled Pigeon
Scaly-breasted Hummingbird
Scaly-breasted Wren
Scarlet Tanager
Scarlet-rumped Tanager
Scarlet-thighed Dacnis
Scrub Greenlet
Shiny Cowbird
Short-billed Pigeon
Short-tailed Swift
Silver-throated Tanager
Slate-colored Seedeater
Slaty Antwren
Slaty-tailed Trogon
Snail Kite
Snowcap
Snowy-bellied Hummingbird
Social Flycatcher
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet
Southern Bentbill
Southern Lapwing
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Spot-crowned Barbet
Spot-crowned Euphonia
Spotted Antbird
Spotted Sandpiper
Spotted Woodcreeper
Squirrel Cuckoo
Streaked Flycatcher
Streaked Saltator
Streak-headed Woodcreeper
Stripe-throated Hermit
Summer Tanager
Swainson’s Hawk
Swainson’s Thrush
Swallow-tailed Kite
Tawny-capped Euphonia
Tawny-crested Tanager
Tennessee Warbler
Thick-billed Euphonia
Thick-billed Seed-Finch
Tody Motmot
Tropical Kingbird
Tropical Mockingbird
Turkey Vulture
Variable Seedeater
Velvety Manakin
Violet-bellied Hummingbird
Violet-headed Hummingbird
Wattled Jacana
Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch
Western Cattle Egret
Western Olivaceous Flatbill
White-breasted Wood-Wren
White-browed Gnatcatcher
White-collared Swift
White-flanked Antwren
White-lined Tanager
White-necked Jacobin
White-necked Puffbird
White-ringed Flycatcher
White-shouldered Tanager
White-tailed Trogon
White-throated Crake
White-throated Thrush
White-tipped Dove
White-vented Plumeleteer
White-whiskered Puffbird
White-winged Becard
Whooping Motmot
Yellow Tyrannulet
Yellow Warbler
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher
Yellow-crowned Euphonia
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Yellow-green Vireo
Yellow-headed Caracara
Yellow-olive Flatbill
Yellow-rumped Cacique
Yellow-tailed Oriole
Yellow-throated Toucan
Yellow-throated Vireo
Yellow-winged Flatbill
Butterflies & Moths:
Banded Peacock Butterfly
Charichlorus Groundstreak Butterfly
Confusa Tigerwing Butterfly
Dark Owl Butterfly
Dirphia Moth
Heliconius Ismenius
Methona Themisto Butterfly
Orange Daggerwing Butterfly
Two Barred Flasher Butterfly
White Peacock Butterfly
Reptiles
Ameiva Ameiva
Clelia Clelia Snake
Common Basilisk
Giant Toad
Green and Black Poison Dart Frog
Green Basilisk
Green Iguana
Red Eyed Tree Frog
Wildlife
Brown Throated Three Toed Sloth
Central American Agouti
Central American White Faced Capuchin
Chiriqui Harvest Mouse
Hoffman’s Two Toed Sloth
Jaguarundi
Mantled Howler Monkey
Red Tailed Squirrel
Talamanca Small Eared Shrew
Tayra
Variegated Squirrel
White Nosed Coati
Other
Argia Damselfly
Bee
Cicada
Damselfly
Great Sac Winged Bat
Orchid Fly
Pelidnota Puctata Beetle
Stink Bug
THINGS TO DO
Parks & Nature
Baru Volcano – although we did not make it, apparently a great hike
Pipeline Road, Discovery Centre and Gamboa
Metropolitan Park – easily spend a day trekking here.
Anton Valley – birds, wildlife and trekking.
Golf
Summit Golf Course – hard course but stunning.
WHERE TO STAY
Our favourite places
Birders Paradise, great bnb in Paraiso 60USD per night.
Refugio Cariguana, Anton Valley from 45 USD per night.
WHERE TO EAT
We only ate out once as we self catered mostly but the place we chose was highly rated and well deserved.
La Ranita Gourmet, Anton Valley, really great food.
COSTS
PARKS:-
Panama Rainforest Discovery Centre 20 USD
Metropolitan Park 4 USD
FUEL:-
90c USD per litre for diesel on average.
ALCOHOL:-
3-5 USD upwards for a can of beer in a restaurant.
1.20 USD in a supermarket
8 USD for a bottle of spirits in a supermarket
Hi Guys Nice bright photos and a good read. Had to laugh re you both losing your reading glasses !Shona