Milne Bay

Great arrival, flying over the coral and islands of Milne Bay, arriving about 10 mins late. Treetops lodge owner – Warren, was waiting for us, really lovely guy.  Although you can pay to have all your meals at the lodge, we chose to do our own breakfast and lunch to save money. Warren was happy to take us to town to buy supplies – even though it was a 20 min ride in the wrong direction.  He also had to wait over an hour in the sun and rain for us to find everything. 

The local PNG people really are so lovely and helpful.  The scenery from town to Treetops lodge was lovely and once further from town there were river crossings too – one of which was still quite high from recent rain – not crossable earlier in the day.

Treetops lodge is not far from the coast but up a very steep muddy track.  On arriving we then have to walk up a very steep muddy slippery path for maybe 100 metres to get to our lodge. Then we are beginning to wonder if this is another rough Keki lodge.  But when we get there it is a beautiful house (used to be their own house), with amazing views over the forest canopy to Milne Bay.  Large verandah, huge bathroom and a kitchen with everything.  Heaven.

While in the accommodation, if we wanted anything, we texted or emailed and Warren would send a lad up.

The weather while here was not the best as it was cloudy most of the time with showers on and off. But we were lucky with all but one trip on the last day – a hike to a waterfall, but the rain was so heavy all day and the track became unusable.

While here Warren took us to a Bird of Paradise spot – other birds too and we had excellent views of the birds, although they did not display.  We really benefitted from our guides in PNG as we wouldn’t have had a clue where to look for the Birds of Paradise even though we knew their call.

Off on a snorkelling trip, a drive down to the coast and a boat ride – maybe 40 mins or so along towards the tip of the peninsular to a bay called Kanakope.

Along the way, passing so many small villages – all only accessible by boat. Treetops and the village there is the end of the road.

  When the boat pulled into stop, to our left was some amazing coral right close under the surface, the water was crystal clear but we were disappointed as it looked such a small patch. 

Off we get and walk to the village, the locals were so friendly and obviously loved to have visitors. Supprisingly the village was also so clean, no rubbish.  The young guide, William took us on a hike up the mountain to some WW11 relics – mostly just bits of concrete from old buildings and rusted bits of machinery, old bottles etc. This area was an Australian base during WW11 and William had found and showed us a dogtag belonging to a Robert Cook. Further on though there was an old bunker and some more intact machinery – interesting for Steve but not so for Chris and I, we just enjoyed the walk and the scenery.  We walked past what looked like an old Queenslander with amazing grounds overlooking a beautiful bay (and more war relics, including a motor bike from Adelaide).  Apparently the house used to be occupied by an Australian governor and the bay is well known with yachters, great shelter.

I forgot to mention in all the blogs how amazing all the orchids growing everywhere are. 

Back to the cove and time for snorkelling – not expecting much after the small patch on the way in but we were told to go to the other side of the boat, what can I say WOW.  I think every place we go just gets better and it was great to start with.  This area has so many different soft corals – as well as hard and just amazing number of fish and other sealife. The variety is incredible and the water so clear – even with the rain on and off. 

Just loved this area, when we left the whole village waved us off, such wonderful people, living such hard remote lives – no running water, sewage, electricity, and just thatched home made houses.

Back at the ranch Chris received a text from a friend asking if we were OK – confused, why would we  not be.  Turns out she thought we were already at Tawali (our next port of call) and that the day before there was a hold up by 7 armed men.  Warren asked if we wanted to change our plans but from my point of view it was done. Do not think they would be hitting the same place twice.

Another trip from treetops was to a coastal village where the wreck of Muscoota (off the village of waga waga) lies – coral has taken hold and the ship has become a coral garden in a bed of nothing but sand, great snorkelling and very interesting.  Ship sunk due to bad weather, originally built in 1888 and was a record breaking ship. Converted to a coal carrier she was struck by a warship then towed to Milne bay where she sank.

A day doing nothing due to rain finished our stay here.  Off to Tawali – but instead of by road back to the town jetty to be picked up we went across the bay by boat as the road river crossing would not be passable.  When we got to the other side we were waiting on the boat out of the rain for the Tawali bus. All the other guests straight from the airport seemed to find us (or our mode of transport) most amusing and they all took photos – but funnily did not speak to us when we got on the bus.  I think as we were not part of an expensive dive tour we were beneath them – to me I think we got the best deal, staying in the same place for a LOT less money.

1 hours drive along the coast and over to the other side of the peninsular and then a 20 min boat trip to the resort which is only accessible by water.

On arriving even though it is overcast you can still see the colours in the water, would have been brilliant with full sun.  We get there in time for lunch and to get the rundown on the hold-up. Inside job by security and all they were really interested in was the money from the safe – although they did take a couple of mobile phones.  They went in at dinner time so it was only what was on the tables, they were not interested in the rooms or other personal stuff.  They had armed guards at resort and on the buses.

After lunch Chris and I could not wait to get in the water and snorkel the house reef,  yet again just amazing coral and sealife.  Under the jetty was like being in a Jacques Costeau or David Attenborough video as there were massive shoals of fish all weaving around you.  They were great for first 1.5 days and then the spinner dolphins came into the cove and ate them all – but it was great watching the dolphins.

While we were snorkelling Steve was taking pictures of the Christmas Island frigatebirds and dolphins. One frigatebird caught a fish on a lure and it was reeled into the boat – they planned to eat it for dinner but Steve could not let that happen (they are critically endangered birds) so he paid $20 to them to let it  go –and the poor bedraggled happily flew off, looking a bit worse for wear, but free.

 We were going to go out and swim with the dolphins on the Thursday. But that was the day they left and did not return while we were there – should have done it earlier.

Trips here were a bird hike – very disappointing, a trip to an island – badly organised.  We were taken out in tiny boat with no life jackets in 20 knots of big sea – and then the tide was wrong for snorkelling when we did get there, not much life on the island either – lots of interesting shells though.

The last 2 trips were good though, one a trip to a skull cave and waterfall, fascinating stories of life prior to missionary’s. Some locals that did not speak English tried to get us to follow them from one cave to another in a narrow tunnel – we thought we would give that a miss.

Lucky last trip was to what they call “coral gardens” a boat trip to some more coral. This was just fantastic, an absolute carpet of coral, lots of it and much I had not seen before –also with crystal clear water despite the clouds.  We all thought this was the best coral we had ever seen. Even luckier we go the only half an hour of sun for the week while we were there. Only regret from Steve was that he didn’t have a Camera.

Our last day here was the same as our last day at treetops – not much activity due to non-stop rain, you can’t win everything.

So back to Port Morseby, Cairns and home.  What an awesome trip.