Colombia
Firstly forgive the number of photos in gallery – so hard to choose but hope you enjoy as much as we did. They may not be all great pictures – ie some out of moving cars, but they tell the story of our visit to Colombia, a surprisingly beautiful country with some amazing scenery, very mountainous and incredible birdlife.
Our first stop was in La Florida outside of Cali, not only did they have great wild birds but they also had a tame parrot which cried like a baby – incredibly realistic and it went on and on just like a real one.
Up the road was a lunch spot with hummingbird feeders – we did not know where to look, never seen anything like it. So many hummingbirds and others like Tanagers just constantly zooming past you. While eating lunch though I got stung by a wasp or bee – much more painful than any other sting I have ever had. It ended up taking 6 days before it stopped itching and hurting.
Everywhere you go there are walls painted with amazing birds and wildlife, must be a lot of talented painters around.
Our next main stop was San Cipriano and the most interesting form of transport to get there. Drive to a small town and then a motorbike powered rail car on old disused rail line. The driver drove like a maniac, surprised the wheels stayed on the track. Great scenery though but too fast for photographs.
Our birding here was cut short on each day by lots of rain, the edge of Hurricane Beryl. We have discovered here that our waterproof clothing, although OK for light showers is not that waterproof in heavy rain, we got drenched.
The town of San Cipriano is a small local village, with the two main tourist attractions being birding and tubing down the river. On the way in our local guide showed us a hummingbird nest with the bird sitting on eggs.
2 days later when we left the roadside workers had chopped it down – poor birds.
We saw plenty of other amazing birds and wildlife though.
Smallest Turtle I have ever seen.
I did like to see though that the bird guides all pick up any rubbish they see while walking the road. (A 7km road that goes no-where). No cars can drive into the town as there is no road but somehow there was a few trucks in town to transport water workers along the 7km road. No idea how they got them there, we asked but language barrier too much for that question.
On to Otun and other places we drove through 11 long tunnels in the mountain range. Amazing how the vegetation changes from the start of the tunnels to the end, going from woodland to tropical. You go in one tunnel and come out to a completely different look.
Birding in Otun was wet (Beryl again) and very cold but did find some great birds. On the way back down, luckily 3km from the town there was a queue to go down the road, bus and a couple of cars. No-one was going anywhere as while we were up the mountain the rain had caused a pretty big landslide to block the road. Luckily not too far to walk.
Rio Blanco – another mountain lodge but still raining – wish Beryl would go away. At least we got some dry weather so not a total loss and a pic of a perched eagle that the guide in 20 odd years has only ever seen flying – lucky but only seconds to take a picture before it flew.
Off for a couple of nights to a city – shock. Manizales, at least we could stock up at the supermarket and get some slightly more interesting food. The most surprising thing to us was that motorbikes where sold in supermarkets for about 1500 USD – dirt cheap.
Some more birding at a place called Hacienda Bosque where a young lad has an amazing affinity with birds. He has taught very shy Antpitta’s to come to a feeder by calling them.
He also calls all sorts of other birds who also come and are quite happy to land on him or let him hand feed them. Each bird has a specific name – incredible to watch.
This bird was called Simon
From here to Los Nevados, the highest we have ever been at 4138 metres. AND COLD.
Scenery though was incredible with snow capped mountains (when visible).
Less rain now the hurricane has passed, just odd showers and mist when in low cloud. Before this the highest we had been was 3300 and we always wondered if going higher we would get altitude sickness. Lucky we now know we don’t, but breathing is not easy.
Interesting layers of volcanic ash in the rocks.
Tatama National Park was our next stop at only 2900 metres, extremely rough road though got bounced around like a rubber ball.
Found a beautiful snake on the road, and a different one that was too quick to take a picture of.
Apart from the birds there was an amazing variety of butterflies and bugs here, the bottom ones lookes like a hovercraft or like he is sitting on a plate.
See more insects and butterflies in the gallery
For a break a couple of days in a town called Jardin, partly to see the Andean cock of the rock lek (but it was out of season so we only saw one bird instead of lots) and also to enjoy the town. Very pretty, colourful town with a European feel, a square, cathedral and lots of sidewalk cafe’s.
The sun even shinned most of the time we were here. Tuk tuks here have seat belts weird after Indian ones.
Up to the North in Santa Marta and a flight change from 3pm to 7.20 and then 8.10. This is up on the Caribbean cost and lovely and warm – at least till we go up the next mountain.
Very strange thing was how the fruit of one type of tree started to go a fluffy mould as soon as they landed on the ground. They covered the ground over a huge area – an odd look.
Walking in rain/cloud forest was like seeing plants that only grow in greenhouse or indoors, pretty good though.
More amazing butterflies here too.
Tayrona National Park was another stop – mainly for mammals, but also found a poison dart frog.
We also found a Red Howler Monkey and the one we were looking for the very cute Cotton Top Tamarind – one with 2 babies on her back.
At Flamingo sanctuary most people seem to live in what I would call wattle and daub houses,
all were very basic but had satellite tv. On the way to hotel (which driver couldn’t find for ages) a man was passed out in middle of road, not sure what he was on but must have started early as it was only midday. Some locals had to come and pick him up so we could get past.
Incredible birding, this was our most productive trip.
And the best a tiny hummingbird on a nest.
Flamingos were a bit far away, we decided not to do boat trip so we could spend more time birding.
During our travels in mountainous areas there were an incredible amount of landslides some small and some blocking half the road, the repairs sometimes take years and in the meantime, more landslides.
Next 2 days on beach, hotel was a letdown and the beach walk to town was disappearing at an alarming rate. Not seen erosion like that since Sri Lanka.
Found a good asian style restaurant run by Swiss lady and Englishman, food was really good.
On our way to Bogota came across this article – had no idea where we had just been for the last 10 days was a Guerilla stronghold.
Some more birding near to Bogota and a couple of days in the city to finish things off. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Very pretty, looks a lot like the English Countryside – with higher mountains. Up at around 3000 metres again and cold with drizzle – the 3 days prior had rained all day so we were lucky. We were hoping to see the spectacled bear but due to a massive delay with road works (1.5 hour stand still) it got dark before we could get to the area, such a shame. Still we saw some amazing humming birds and some lovely orchids.
Plan was to go and look at some impressive Bogota buildings but cold and wet so giving that a miss. Off to Ecuador.
BIRD & WILDLIFE IDENTIFIED:
Birds:
American Yellow Oriole
Andean Cock-of-the-rock
Andean Duck
Andean Emerald
Andean Guan
Andean Motmot
Andean Siskin
Andean Solitaire
Andean Teal
Andean Tit-Spinetail
Ash-colored Tapaculo
Ashy-headed Tyrannulet
Ashy-throated Chlorospingus
Azara’s Spinetail
Band-tailed Guan
Bar-bellied Woodpecker
Bare-eyed Pigeon
Bare-faced Ibis
Barred Becard
Barred Fruiteater
Beautiful Jay
Beryl-spangled Tanager
Bicolored Antvireo
Bicolored Wren
Black Flowerpiercer
Black Skimmer
Black Solitaire
Black-and-chestnut Eagle
Black-and-gold Tanager
Black-backed Antshrike
Black-backed Bush Tanager
Black-backed Grosbeak
Black-billed Mountain-Toucan
Black-billed Peppershrike
Black-billed Thrush
Black-capped Hemispingus
Black-capped Tanager
Black-capped Tyrannulet
Black-cheeked Mountain Tanager
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle
Black-chested Mountain Tanager
Black-chinned Mountain Tanager
Black-collared Jay
Black-crested Antshrike
Black-crested Warbler
Black-eared Hemispingus
Black-fronted Wood-Quail
Black-headed Antthrush
Black-headed Brushfinch
Black-headed Tanager
Blackish Rail
Blackish Tapaculo
Black-thighed Puffleg
Black-throated Mango
Black-winged Saltator
Blue-and-black Tanager
Blue-backed Conebill
Blue-capped Tanager
Blue-headed Sapphire
Blue-naped Chlorophonia
Blue-necked Tanager
Blue-tailed Trogon
Blue-throated Starfrontlet
Blue-whiskered Tanager
Blue-winged Mountain Tanager
Bluish Flowerpiercer
Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant
Bronze-tailed Thornbill
Bronze-winged Parrot
Bronzy Inca
Brown Inca
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant
Brown-banded Antpitta
Brown-bellied Swallow
Brown-breasted Parakeet
Brown-rumped Tapaculo
Buff-breasted Mountain Tanager
Buff-necked Ibis
Buff-tailed Coronet
Buff-winged Starfrontlet
Buffy Helmetcrest
Buffy Hummingbird
Capped Conebill
Carib Grackle
Cattle Tyrant
Cauca Guan
Chami Antpitta
Chestnut Piculet
Chestnut Wood-Quail
Chestnut-bellied Chat-Tyrant
Chestnut-bellied Flowerpiercer
Chestnut-breasted Chlorophonia
Chestnut-breasted Wren
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta
Chestnut-naped Antpitta
Chivi Vireo
Choco Elaenia
Choco Poorwill
Choco Toucan
Choco Vireo
Choco Warbler
Cinereous Becard
Cinnamon Flycatcher
Cinnamon Woodpecker
Club-winged Manakin
Collared Inca
Collared Plover
Colombian Chachalaca
Coppery-bellied Puffleg
Crane Hawk
Crescent-faced Antpitta
Crested Ant-Tanager
Crested Bobwhite
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker
Crimson-rumped Toucanet
Double-striped Thick-knee
Dull-colored Grassquit
Dusky Chlorospingus
Dusky Pigeon
Eared Dove
Empress Brilliant
Equatorial Antpitta
Fasciated Tiger-Heron
Fawn-breasted Brilliant
Fawn-breasted Tanager
Five-colored Barbet
Flame-faced Tanager
Fulvous-breasted Flatbill
Fulvous-dotted Treerunner
Glaucous Tanager
Glistening-green Tanager
Glossy Flowerpiercer
Glowing Puffleg
Golden Grosbeak
Golden Tanager
Golden-bellied Flycatcher
Golden-breasted Fruiteater
Golden-collared Honeycreeper
Golden-crowned Tanager
Golden-faced Tyrannulet
Golden-fronted Redstart
Golden-headed Quetzal
Golden-naped Tanager
Golden-plumed Parakeet
Golden-winged Sparrow
Gold-ringed Tanager
Gorgeted Woodstar
Grass Wren
Grass-green Tanager
Great Sapphirewing
Great Thrush
Green Jay
Green-and-black Fruiteater
Green-fronted Lancebill
Greenish Puffleg
Grey Tinamou
Grey-and-gold Tanager
Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan
Grey-browed Brushfinch
Grey-hooded Bush Tanager
Greyish Piculet
Handsome Flycatcher
Hermit Wood-Wren
Hooded Mountain Tanager
Indigo Flowerpiercer
Lacrimose Mountain Tanager
Lanceolated Monklet
Lazuline Sabrewing
Lemon-browed Flycatcher
Lemon-spectacled Tanager
Lesser Goldfinch
Lined Quail-Dove
Lita Woodpecker
Little Tinamou
Long-billed Gnatwren
Long-tailed Sylph
Longuemare’s Sunangel
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant
Masked Flowerpiercer
Masked Trogon
Metallic-green Tanager
Military Macaw
Montane Foliage-gleaner
Montane Woodcreeper
Mountain Cacique
Mountain Velvetbreast
Mountain Wren
Moustached Puffbird
Muisca Antpitta
Multicolored Tanager
Munchique Wood-Wren
Nariño Tapaculo
Noble Snipe
Northern Mouse-colored Tyrannulet
Northern Scrub-Flycatcher
Northern White-fringed Antwren
Ocellated Tapaculo
Ochre-breasted Antpitta
Ochre-breasted Tanager
Ochre-lored Flatbill
Oleaginous Hemispingus
Olivaceous Piha
Olive Finch
Olive-grey Saltator
One-colored Becard
Orange-bellied Euphonia
Orange-breasted Fruiteater
Orange-crowned Oriole
Orinocan Saltator
Ornate Flycatcher
Pacific Antwren
Pacific Flatbill
Pacific Tuftedcheek
Pale-bellied Hermit
Pale-bellied Tapaculo
Pale-breasted Thrush
Pale-edged Flycatcher
Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant
Pale-naped Brushfinch
Pale-tipped Tyrannulet
Pallid Dove
Paramo Seedeater
Paramo Tapaculo
Parker’s Antbird
Pearled Treerunner
Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant
Pileated Finch
Plain-colored Seedeater
Plumbeous Pigeon
Plumbeous Sierra Finch
Plushcap
Purple-backed Thornbill
Purple-bibbed Whitetip
Purple-chested Hummingbird
Purple-throated Woodstar
Purplish-mantled Tanager
Red-and-green Macaw
Red-bellied Grackle
Red-billed Emerald
Red-billed Parrot
Reddish Egret
Red-headed Barbet
Red-hooded Tanager
Red-ruffed Fruitcrow
Rose-faced Parrot
Ruby-topaz Hummingbird
Rufous Spinetail
Rufous-breasted Flycatcher
Rufous-breasted Hermit
Rufous-browed Tyrannulet
Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher
Rufous-gaped Hillstar
Rufous-rumped Antwren
Rufous-throated Tanager
Rufous-vented Chachalaca
Rufous-winged Tanager
Russet-crowned Warbler
Russet-throated Puffbird
Rusty Flowerpiercer
Rusty-breasted Antpitta
Rusty-headed Spinetail
Saffron-crowned Tanager
Saffron-headed Parrot
Santa Marta Antbird
Santa Marta Antpitta
Santa Marta Blossomcrown
Santa Marta Brushfinch
Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner
Santa Marta Tapaculo
Santa Marta Warbler
Santa Marta Woodstar
Scaled Dove
Scaled Piculet
Scaly-naped Parrot
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner
Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager
Scarlet-browed Tanager
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet
Scrub Tanager
Semicollared Hawk
Semipalmated Sandpiper
Sensitive
Sharpe’s Wren
Sharp-shinned Hawk
Shining Sunbeam
Shining-green Hummingbird
Short-billed Dowitcher
Sickle-winged Guan
Sierra Nevada Antpitta
Sierra Nevada Brushfinch
Silvery-throated Spinetail
Slate-crowned Antpitta
Slaty Brushfinch
Slaty Spinetail
Slender-billed Tyrannulet
Smoke-colored Pewee
Smoky Bush-Tyrant
Sooty-capped Hermit
Sooty-headed Wren
Southern Emerald-Toucanet
Sparkling Violetear
Speckled Hummingbird
Spectacled Parrotlet
Spillmann’s Tapaculo
Spot-crowned Antvireo
Steely-vented Hummingbird
Stout-billed Cinclodes
Straight-billed Woodcreeper
Streak-capped Spinetail
Streaked Xenops
Streak-headed Antbird
Streak-necked Flycatcher
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant
Striolated Manakin
Strong-billed Woodcreeper
Stub-tailed Antbird
Stygian Owl
Superciliaried Hemispingus
Swallow Tanager
Sword-billed Hummingbird
Tatama Tapaculo
Tawny Antpitta
Tawny-bellied Hermit
Tawny-breasted Flycatcher
Thicket Antpitta
Three-striped Warbler
Tocuyo Sparrow
Tolima Dove
Toucan Barbet
Tourmaline Sunangel
Tricolored Brushfinch
Trinidad Euphonia
Tropical Gnatcatcher
Turquoise Dacnis
Tyrannine Woodcreeper
Tyrian Metaltail
Uniform Antshrike
Uniform Treehunter
Variegated Bristle-Tyrant
Velvet-purple Coronet
Vermilion Cardinal
Violet-tailed Sylph
Viridian Metaltail
Western Emerald
Western Woodhaunter
White-banded Tyrannulet
White-bearded Manakin
White-bellied Woodstar
White-booted Racket-tail
White-capped Dipper
White-fronted Nunbird
White-lored Warbler
White-sided Flowerpiercer
White-tailed Starfrontlet
White-thighed Swallow
White-throated Quail-Dove
White-throated Tyrannulet
White-tipped Quetzal
White-tipped Sicklebill
White-whiskered Hermit
White-whiskered Spinetail
Yellow-backed Oriole
Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant
Yellow-billed Tern
Yellow-breasted Antpitta
Yellow-breasted Antwren
Yellow-breasted Brushfinch
Yellow-collared Chlorophonia
Yellow-crowned Redstart
Yellow-eared Parrot
Yellow-legged Thrush
Yellow-vented Woodpecker
Butterflies & Moths:
Adelpha Cytherea
Alpine
Anaea Polyxo
Anartia Amathea
Anna’s 88
Anthanassa
Appalachian Azure
Autochton Skipper
Brush Footed
Clearwing
Corades Seraba
Corinna Daggerwing
Cyanopepla Moth
Dartwhite
Diaphania Beckeri Moth
Elonworm Moth
Epiphile Neildi
Eretris Apuleja
Eueides Olympia
Euptychia
Flaming Skipper
Genus Catoblepia
Genus Thespieus
Giant Glasswing
Glasswing
Gold Spot Skipperling
Gold Banded Skipper
Heliconius Doris
Hermeuuptychia Hermes
Historis
Hoodus Moth
Hypothyris
Idaea Moth
Imperial Moth
Intricate Satire
Lasiophila
Lethe Appalachia
Lycorea
Lymanopoda
Malachite
Margined Satyr
Mariposa Marcas
Mechanitis Tiger
Megisto
Mesosemia Mevania
Mesosemia Pacifica
Mexican Yellow
Morpho
Mygona Irmina
Orange Banded Shoemaker
Owl
Pedaliodes Phazania Takahashi
Pellicia
Perisama
Phocides Pigmalion
Pierella Helvina
Postman Butterfly
Ruby Spotted Swallowtail
Sara Longwing
Skipper
Spot Banded Daggerwing
Taygetis
Tiger Moth
Tisiphone Abeoan
Typhla Satyr
White Peacock
Xylophones Moth
Yanguna Cosyra
Zatrephes Miniata Moth
Reptiles, Insects and other
Anolis Lizard
Archytas Fly
Arrowhead Spider
Band Winged Dragonlet
Blue Land Crab
Blue Winged Helicopter Dragonfly
Bocourt’s Dwarf Iguana
Bumble Bee
Caterpillars
Chauliognathus Heros Beetle
Choco Grasshopper
Chrysops Relicus Fly
Clown Grasshoppers
Coenagrion Puella
Coptocycla Leprosa Bug
Damselfies
Elephant Weevil
Erythrdiplax Dragonfly
False Coral Snake
Genus Agathomerus Bug
Genus Hystricia Fly
Giant Tadpole
Golden Leaf Beetle
Golden Silk Orb Weaver Spider
Golden Tortoise Beetle
Green Hooktail Dragonfly
House Fly
Large Milkweed Bug
Masked Tree Frog
Northern Banded Groundling Dragonfly
Paratriarius Tropicus Bug
Protoneuridae Damselfly
Pumpkin Beetle
Rainbow Whiptail Lizard
Ruby Spot Damsel Fly
Scarlet Skimmer Dragonfly
Stilt Legged Fly
Tachinid Fly
Tachininae Fly
Tantilla Melanocephala Snake
Tarantula Wasp
Tribe Phaeopariini Grasshopper
Tropical Orb Weaver Spider
Tropidacris Grasshopper
Urrao Anole Lizard
Vates Weyrauchi Praying Mantis
Verrucosa Spider
Western Basilisk
White Lipped Mud Turtle
Yellow Headed Gecko
Yellow Striped Poison Frog
Wildlife
Andean Tapeti (Rabbit)
Cotton Top Tamarin Monkey
Crab Eating Fox
Forest Mouse
Jagurundi
Red Howler Monkey
Red Tailed Squirrel
Santander Dwarf Squirrel
Toromy’s Forest Mouse
White Faced Capuchin Monkey
THINGS TO DO
Hiking – a massive thing in Colombia and as it is so mountainous there are plenty of hiking trails at all levels of difficulty.
Birds – also a big country for birds, plenty of places all over depending on what you want to see, beware the areas change from hot coastal to freezing high altitude mountains.
Tubing – also a very popular past-time all over the country, plenty of rivers.
WHERE TO STAY
We mainly stayed in accommodation in the parks we went to where there is no choice so impossible for us to comment about general accommodation.
WHERE TO EAT
Ditto above, some of our accommodation had food included, some we just lived on snacks we bought from supermarkets.
COSTS
Fuel:- 4,000 COP per litre
Alcohol:- from 60,000 COP for a bottle of spirits
Meals:- from 30,000 COP
Brillant photos thanks guys looks like a really interesting country
Great photos – enjoy Ecuador, looking forward to the pics 👍😄