MOUNT HAGEN AND ENGA PROVINCE

Now to see if the local travel agent I found on trip advisor (and paid in advance) did in fact book all the accommodation and transfers.

Our luck is still in, he did.  He met us at Port Moresby airport and had information ready so off we trot. Heading to Mount Hagen and the first few nights at Kumul Lodge. A birding place, quite basic accommodation but really lovely setting.  The owner of Kumul lodge picked us up and again was quite happy to stop at a supermarket for us (even though it affects what we spend in his resort).  Mount Hagen itself was a shock, partly due to the rain but also it was a tip. Building and demolition everywhere, dreadful roads and lots of rubbish.

The drive to Kumul from the airport was wet and cold . This was much colder than we thought it would be so as soon as we got to the lodge we layered up.  The height above sea level here is 2900 meters. In contrast though to the town the scenery was amazing, mountainous and green.  The green being from a mix of natural rainforest and miles of vegetables.  This area grows 90% of the food for the whole country.  Along the way the driver stopped and bought fruit and nuts from roadside sellers. These were supposedly for the guests but by the time we got there they had eaten all the peanuts and made a good dent in the rest.

The afternoon was spent sitting under a verandah watching the bird table.Totally amazing bird varieties so much so that we spent a few hours here even though it was cold and wet.  Lucky we did as many of the birds we saw that afternoon we did not see again.And would have been scared away by the sound of so many cameras from bird trip people. Sounded like Machine Guns.

The rest of the time here was better, no more rain and some sun – not hot but not freezing either. A few birding trips, and walks through forests. Às a result we have seen 9 species of Birds’ of Paradise and so many other things, so colourful.  Just a pity that we could not get nearer some species – due to tribal family fights and land arguments.

We went on a walk through the forest to an orchid garden that has over 200 species of orchids. NONE of which I have ever seen before, incredible.  The owner is also a bird guide but decided to set this up a few years ago – every time he walks through the forest he collects more orchids.  They all come from around the local area. And his whole orchid garden has been set up by him alone – incredible amount of work – no machinery. His Orchids have been sold and displayed in Japan and are very valuable. Some of these orchids were so tiny we would have missed them if Max hadn’t pointed them out.

One day was spent going to the PAIYA MINI show – which is a small cultural show before the larger Mount Hagen show (which we did not go to – too many dead birds).

It was really interesting to watch the dress and make up, but sad to think how many birds die to populate the headdresses.  I particularly liked the skeletons and the mudmen (their costumes do not use feathers).  The locals just astound me how they are so friendly and also love their photos being taken – unfortunately many of the tourists are not pleasant at all. They also had a bbq there which was basically a fire and they put meat on it.

Our last night at Kumul lodge turned into a really fancy dinner. The lodge had organised a special stay for the Governor of the Enga Province, the Australian High Commissioner and his aide’s.  When we left the next morning we were following their procession of vehicles and security so when we went through the province border we were all saluted too – fame for a minute.

Down to Mount Hagen for 2 nights staying in the Mount Hagen Missionary Home – interesting.18 hours of religious music and chat a day… Still Eric who was the manager was lovely and he did not push religion on to us – at least not till he dropped us at the airport when of course he had to give us a pamphlet.

Staying here we met the same worlds most travelled professional photographer that we bumped into at Mount Hagen, Paiya show and now here.  Small world.  His photos were amazing. For dinner we wanted to go to a restaurant about 100 meters down the road – staff member sent with us.  When we left the security got us a van and guards.  The next day going to the market 2 staff were sent with us.  The fruit and veg in the market was the most amazing looking produce I have ever seen – and all organic apart from potatoes, cabbage and one other.  People fly from Port Moresby to Mt Hagan market just to buy Vegetables as they are expensive there.

They are very conscious of our safety but the ex-pats that live here say unlikely anything would happen but they do not want to risk bad reputation.  Personally I would have been happy to wander around alone and not sure that all the security actually scares some people more.

On our last day Eric the manager took us and a couple of other guests to his rental property. It was in the hills and we walked (or slid) about 100 metres down a very steep hill side to a river, then rock hopped and paddled along the river to a hidden waterfall.  Really amazing adventure – although getting back up was not easy.

Tomorrow we head off to Madang and also catch up with a friend who will join us for the rest of the trip.