Rainforest, Snow and Volcanoes
Landing in Quito there was great views of a snow covered volcano.
Going firstly to pick up our hire car we had a long hassle there. They needed to take a deposit as per normal but for some reason in Ecuador all our credit card limits are reduced so they could not get the deposit from any of them. Take some from each we said – can’t do that they said, has to be one card. Eventually after a good hour of messing around and the guy behind the desk just trying same over and over his boss gave approval to take from 2 cards. When done the guy said they had this problem all the time….. in which case you think they would have worked a quicker solution. Just hope it comes back.
Next we received a bill for an Amazon Lodge we were planning to stay in. What a hassle, we could not get Vodafone to work (although it is supposed to, cost 35 aud to find it doesn’t work) so could not transfer money as no dual authentification. Tried paypal, also wanted text message authentication. Off to their office where they tried credit card again but it got blocked (too many tries in car hire place). Try each of our 3 cards, no luck. Another couple of hours wasted before getting that sorted.
Now to our very shortened day to explore Quito old town (now only 2 hours). Great buildings but many people as a long weekend, also very very steep roads when hot and high altitude a bit of a struggle.
Impressive buildings, but hard to get a good angle for a photograph.
Lots of street sellers also make for interest walking around so many artists and other stuff.
Back to the hotel and yippee a great Indian Restaurant nearby for dinner.
The Mindo Cloudforest for few days of birding and relaxation was lovely, very scenic and lots of birds, especially hummingbirds. We had planned to do some hiking trails but most were very very steep so only managed a couple. Great use of recycling though, old bottle crates as steps and beer bottle tops upside down on wood to make it less slippery.
Next stop was “Middle of the world” the centre of the equator.
Heading South East for more birding we found a great Airbnb, really lovely scenery, good birds and lovely people. Pity about the food, lucky we were only there a couple of nights. Good for waistline.
Further South East to Puerto Mishualli river where most of the transport is canoe as 2 rivers join and accommodation etc split over each side of each river. To hail a boat if not in the main town, you whistle or ring a bell.
Unfortunately here although the place we were staying looked lovely, it was a weekend and on the opposite side of the river a party on the beach went on till the early hours very loudly. (Even though the beach closes at 8pm).
Went on a river trip really was like watching an Attenborough documentary with lots of birds and monkeys.
There are massive fish in the river called Paiche, really colourful with red stripes they can weigh up to 200 pounds and up to 9 feet long.
We also went to another lodge that obviously had suffered from covid shutdown as quite a few building’s were incomplete, including hand rails to get to viewing platform (one grazed arm later). It was amazing birding though and also had monkeys and the big river fish.
A birding lodge was next on our agenda and it lived up to its reputation, incredible birds. Hoping for a good Volcano view. Didn’t happen due to cloud and rain. Did a few steepish treks to see some rarish birds and then met a herpetologist who allowed us to go to the research station and see his snakes and frogs – all caught in the area. Had an interesting moment when he could not re catch a highly poisonous snake and nearly trod on it, it moved very fast. But all good in the end.
To attract birds a cloth is put up and a light left on all night (this attracts the bugs which in turn attract some birds). Some amazing moths and bugs to be seen. Lots more in gallery.
Now for some cold stuff, Papallacta Hot Springs, lovely to have a wood fire in the room, but still pretty cold as so many drafts come through doors etc. Some birding along the route was even worse (higher) and so so cold as well as wet, great birds but not fun being so cold, felt like I was getting frost bite. Booked a guide but got dates wrong, luckily bird guide wasn’t busy and he managed to meet us a bit later so we managed to see some high altitude birds.
Higher still to Cotopaxi Volcano, the drive was so slow with bad weather, cows, dodgy road etc that we only made the closing time of the park by a few minutes. Our hotel is inside the park so you have to be there by 4pm. I know there are good views but so wet and clouds covering the mountains.
View from our hotel, the only one inside the park
Luckily the next day was clear (ish) and we had some good views from our hotel and being inside the park were able to drive up another 1000 metres to the carpark before the crowds. Might have walked another 250 metres up to restaurant but so cold, no proper clothing and also cloud and mist coming in fast. Back down to the lagoon for a walk before leaving.
Last stop in this part of Ecuador is the Amazon rainforest – almost to the Peru border. To get there is a flight to Coca, then a 2.5 hour drive and a 3 hour river trip in a canoe. We looked for birds along the way and this new lodge’s owner is not really great on time keeping. The drive was nearer 5 hours and canoe trip nearer 4 as it was after the sun went down when we arrived. Pretty scary going down a shallow river, bumping into huge logs in pitch black. If we asked how long his 12 minutes was actually nearer 1 hour.
Brilliant Place 7kms to nearest community, no phone, no internet only solar lights. So great to sleep in pitch black (apart from stars at times) and only natural noises. Water pump packed up on the first day so only buckets for loo, lucky they do have drinking water containers. We thought other river trips had been good, these were spectacular.
As it is the end of the dry season the river’s is very low and trees down across them everywhere.
Good birding though. Did one trail near the lodge, it hadn’t been used for a while so very difficult going, in one place he had to clear all the vines that had taken over the path.
We had thought trip in to the lodge in darkness was iffy, but worse on way out. Leaving to catch flight were told leave at 4 am, 3 hours river, 2 hours drive. It was pitch black and the canoe driver did not use lights. 4 hours later we finish river trip – panic – sure we will not make flight, but the driver drove like a lunatic only to find a roadblocked by strikers complaining about leaking oil pipes. More panic – guide calls airline they will keep check in open for us. Finally arriving, big panic airline staff bending over backwards to get us on board fast. No time even to go to the bathroom. But quickest I have ever boarded a plane, 10 mins from arriving, bags checked and on plane. Phew last ones on flight, was a great relief otherwise could have missed our Galapagos Trip.
BIRD & WILDLIFE IDENTIFIED:
Birds:
Agile Tit-Tyrant
Amazonian Elaenia
Amazonian Motmot
Amazonian Streaked-Antwren
Amazonian Trogon
American Pygmy Kingfisher
Andean Cock-of-the-rock
Andean Condor
Andean Duck
Andean Emerald
Andean Guan
Andean Gull
Andean Lapwing
Andean Pygmy-Owl
Andean Solitaire
Andean Teal
Andean Tit-Spinetail
Anhinga
Bananaquit
Band-tailed Pigeon
Bare-necked Fruitcrow
Barn Swallow
Barred Forest-Falcon
Barred Hawk
Bat Falcon
Bay Wren
Bay-headed Tanager
Bicolored Hawk
Black Caracara
Black Flowerpiercer
Black Hawk-Eagle
Black Skimmer
Black Vulture
Black-and-white Owl
Black-and-white Tody-Flycatcher
Black-bellied Thorntail
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant
Black-billed Thrush
Black-billed Treehunter
Black-capped Donacobius
Black-cheeked Woodpecker
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle
Black-fronted Nunbird
Black-headed Parrot
Black-spotted Bare-eye
Black-streaked Puffbird
Black-tailed Tityra
Black-tailed Trainbearer
Black-tailed Trogon
Black-throated Hermit
Black-throated Mango
Black-winged Ground Dove
Black-winged Saltator
Blue-and-white Swallow
Blue-and-yellow Macaw
Blue-capped Tanager
Blue-grey Tanager
Blue-headed Parrot
Blue-mantled Thornbill
Blue-naped Chlorophonia
Blue-necked Tanager
Blue-rumped Manakin
Blue-tailed Emerald
Blue-tailed Trogon
Blue-throated Piping-Guan
Blue-winged Mountain Tanager
Bluish-grey Saltator
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Boat-billed Heron
Bronze-green Euphonia
Bronzy Inca
Brown Inca
Brown Pelican
Brown Violetear
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant
Brown-bellied Swallow
Brown-capped Vireo
Buff-breasted Mountain Tanager
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner
Buff-tailed Coronet
Buff-tailed Sicklebill
Buff-winged Starfrontlet
Capped Heron
Carunculated Caracara
Casqued Cacique
Channel-billed Toucan
Chestnut Woodpecker
Chestnut-bellied Seedeater
Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch
Chestnut-breasted Coronet
Chestnut-capped Brushfinch
Chestnut-collared Swift
Chestnut-crowned Gnateater
Chestnut-eared Aracari
Chestnut-fronted Macaw
Chestnut-winged Cinclodes
Chivi Vireo
Choco Black-throated Trogon
Cinereous Conebill
Cinnamon Attila
Cliff Flycatcher
Cobalt-winged Parakeet
Cocoi Heron
Collared Inca
Common Pauraque
Common Potoo
Coraya Wren
Cream-colored Woodpecker
Crested Guan
Crested Oropendola
Crimson-crested Woodpecker
Crimson-rumped Toucanet
Crowned Slaty Flycatcher
Deep-blue Flowerpiercer
Drab Water Tyrant
Dusky Chlorospingus
Dusky-headed Parakeet
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin
Ecuadorian Hillstar
Ecuadorian Piedtail
Ecuadorian Thrush
Empress Brilliant
Fawn-breasted Brilliant
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl
Fiery-throated Fruiteater
Flame-faced Tanager
Flame-rumped Tanager
Foothill Screech-Owl
Foothill Stipplethroat
Forest Elaenia
Fork-tailed Palm Swift
Fork-tailed Woodnymph
Fulvous Shrike-Tanager
Giant Antpitta
Giant Cowbird
Gilded Barbet
Glistening-green Tanager
Glossy Flowerpiercer
Golden Tanager
Golden-bellied Euphonia
Golden-bellied Flycatcher
Golden-breasted Puffleg
Golden-collared Honeycreeper
Golden-faced Tyrannulet
Golden-green Woodpecker
Golden-headed Quetzal
Golden-naped Tanager
Golden-olive Woodpecker
Golden-tailed Sapphire
Gorgeted Sunangel
Gorgeted Woodstar
Gould’s Jewelfront
Great Antshrike
Great Blue Heron
Great Egret
Great Kiskadee
Great Potoo
Great Sapphirewing
Great Thrush
Greater Ani
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture
Greater Yellowlegs
Green Hermit
Green Ibis
Green Jay
Green Kingfisher
Green-and-gold Tanager
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher
Green-backed Hillstar
Green-backed Trogon
Green-crowned Brilliant
Green-fronted Lancebill
Grey Antbird
Grey-breasted Crake
Grey-breasted Martin
Grey-breasted Wood-Wren
Grey-fronted Dove
Grey-headed Kite
Guayaquil Woodpecker
Hoatzin
House Wren
King Vulture
Lafresnaye’s Piculet
Large-billed Tern
Large-headed Flatbill
Laughing Falcon
Lemon-throated Barbet
Lesser Kiskadee
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift
Lesser Violetear
Lettered Aracari
Lineated Foliage-gleaner
Lineated Woodpecker
Lined Antshrike
Long-tailed Sylph
Lunulated Antbird
Magpie Tanager
Many-banded Aracari
Many-spotted Hummingbird
Maroon-tailed Parakeet
Masked Crimson Tanager
Masked Flowerpiercer
Masked Trogon
Mealy Parrot
Military Macaw
Montane Foliage-gleaner
Montane Woodcreeper
Moss-backed Tanager
Mottle-backed Elaenia
Moustached Antpitta
Musician Wren
Napo Sabrewing
Ocellated Woodcreeper
Ochre-breasted Antpitta
Olivaceous Woodcreeper
Olive-backed Woodcreeper
Olive-striped Flycatcher
Orange-backed Troupial
Orange-bellied Euphonia
Orange-breasted Fruiteater
Orange-cheeked Parrot
Orange-fronted Plushcrown
Orange-winged Parrot
Ornate Flycatcher
Ornate Hawk-Eagle
Pacific Hornero
Palm Tanager
Paramo Seedeater
Paramo Tapaculo
Pearl Kite
Peruvian Racket-tail
Piratic Flycatcher
Plain-backed Antpitta
Plain-brown Woodcreeper
Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant
Plain-colored Seedeater
Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan
Plumbeous Kite
Plumbeous Pigeon
Plumbeous Sierra Finch
Plum-throated Cotinga
Purple Gallinule
Purple Honeycreeper
Purple-backed Thornbill
Purple-bibbed Whitetip
Purple-throated Woodstar
Pygmy Antwren
Rainbow-bearded Thornbill
Red-bellied Macaw
Red-billed Parrot
Red-capped Cardinal
Red-crested Cotinga
Red-crested Finch
Red-faced Spinetail
Red-headed Barbet
Red-necked Woodpecker
Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant
Ringed Kingfisher
Riparian Parrotlet
Roadside Hawk
Rose-faced Parrot
Ruddy Pigeon
Rufescent Screech-Owl
Rufescent Tiger-Heron
Rufous-breasted Antthrush
Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail
Rufous-brown Solitaire
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant
Rufous-naped Greenlet
Rufous-rumped Antwren
Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Rufous-throated Tanager
Rufous-vented Whitetip
Russet-backed Oropendola
Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Sand-colored Nighthawk
Sapphire-vented Puffleg
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant
Scaled Fruiteater
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner
Scarlet Macaw
Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager
Scarlet-crowned Barbet
Scrub Blackbird
Shining Sunbeam
Shiny Cowbird
Short-billed Honeycreeper
Short-crested Flycatcher
Silver-beaked Tanager
Silvered Antbird
Silver-throated Tanager
Slate-colored Coot
Slate-colored Grosbeak
Slate-colored Hawk
Slate-throated Redstart
Slender-billed Kite
Small-billed Elaenia
Smoky-brown Woodpecker
Smooth-billed Ani
Social Flycatcher
Solitary Black Cacique
Solitary Sandpiper
Sooty Antbird
Southern Lapwing
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Spangled Cotinga
Sparkling Violetear
Speckled Chachalaca
Speckled Hummingbird
Spectacled Bristle-Tyrant
Spectacled Redstart
Spix’s Guan
Spotted Tanager
Spotted Woodcreeper
Spot-winged Antbird
Squirrel Cuckoo
Stout-billed Cinclodes
Streaked Tuftedcheek
Striated Heron
Striped Treehunter
Strong-billed Woodcreeper
Sulphury Flycatcher
Sunbittern
Sungrebe
Swallow-winged Puffbird
Tawny Antpitta
Tawny-bellied Hermit
Thick-billed Euphonia
Three-striped Warbler
Thrush-like Wren
Toucan Barbet
Tropical Kingbird
Tropical Mockingbird
Tropical Parula
Turkey Vulture
Turquoise Jay
Tyrannine Woodcreeper
Tyrian Metaltail
Undulated Tinamou
Variable Hawk
Velvet-purple Coronet
Violaceous Jay
Violet-fronted Brilliant
Violet-headed Hummingbird
Violet-tailed Sylph
Viridian Metaltail
Western Cattle Egret
Western Emerald
Western Fire-eye
White-banded Swallow
White-bellied Woodstar
White-booted Racket-tail
White-capped Dipper
White-capped Tanager
White-crowned Manakin
White-eared Jacamar
White-flanked Antwren
White-lined Tanager
White-thighed Swallow
White-throated Daggerbill
White-throated Toucan
White-tipped Dove
White-whiskered Hermit
White-winged Swallow
Wing-banded Wren
Wire-crested Thorntail
Yellow-bellied Tanager
Yellow-billed Pintail
Yellow-billed Tern
Yellow-breasted Antpitta
Yellow-breasted Antwren
Yellow-breasted Brushfinch
Yellow-browed Sparrow
Yellow-crowned Parrot
Yellow-headed Caracara
Yellow-rumped Cacique
Yellow-throated Spadebill
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker
Butterflies & Moths:
Adelpha Butterfly
Aglossa Moth
Amastus Moth
Amblychia Moltrechti Moth
Apatelodes Moth
Appias Drusilla Butterfly
Azochis Curvilinealis Moth
Brown Longtail Butterfly
Caeruleuptychia Butterfly
Chloroclystra Moth
Corades Enyo Butterfly
Diaethria Kolvma Butterfly
Diaphania Moth
Dirphia Moth
Eilema Moth
Endoclita Moth
Epimecis Nasica Moth
Eresia Butterfly
Euchlaena Moth
Euglyphis Braganza Moth
Eunica Butterfly
Eunica Veronica Butterfly
Geometroidea Moth
Glasswing Butterfly
Haetera Butterfly
Heliconius Telesiphe Butterfly
Heterocampa Moth
Historis Acheronta Butterfly
Isana Larusalis Moth
Iridopsis Moth
Lappet Moth
Lophocampa Moth
Macaria Notata Moth
Malachite Butterfly
Malachite Butterfly
Melinaea Butterfly
Metamorpha Elissa Butterfly
Metarranthis Moth
Nawab Butterfly
Nisista Serrata Moth
Oleria Padilla Butterfly
Omiodes Moth
Opisthoxia Laticlava Moth
Owl Butterfly
Owlet Moth
Painted Tiger Moth
Pantherodes Unciaria Moth
Pericyma Moth
Perizoma Bifaciata Moth
Phoebis Argante Butterfly
Pilotherma Rosa Moth
Pingasa Moth
Pityeja Histrionaria Moth
Posttaygetis Butterfly
Prochoerodes Moth
Pseudischnocampa Ecuadorensis Moth
Pyrrhogyra Neaerea Butterfly
Rosema Tinae Moth
Sabulodes Moth
Sarcinodes Derufata Moth
Satire Butterfly
Sozusa Moth
Tersa Sphinx Moth
Trichromia Moth
Tropical Buckeye Butterfly
Tuft Moth
Urania Butterfly
Waiter Daggerwing Butterfly
Xylophanes Moth
Reptiles & Insects
Aglaoctenus Castaneus Spider
Amberwing Dragonfly
Black Necked Amazon Coral Snake
Bluet Damselfly
Blunt Headed Vine Snake
Carpenter Bee
Caterpillar – various
Cicada
Cyclocephala Beetle
Diplacodes Dragonfly
Drepanoides, Black Collared Snake
Elephant Beetle
Exaerete Bee
Grass Spider
Green Spider
Harlequin Beetle
Horned Passalus Beetle
House Gecko
Millipede
Mimela Beetle
Mountain Whipsnake
Praying Mantis
Proseicela egensis Bug
Red Snouted Tree Frog
Vermiculated Snail Eating Snake
Wildlife
Agouti
Andean White Eared Opossum
Black Mantled Tamarin
Blue River Dolphin
Common Squirrel Monkey
Common Tapeti
Common Woolly Monkey
Dwarf Squirrel
Ecuadorian Capuchin Monkey
Ecuadorian Squirrel Monkey
Graell’s Black Mantled Tamarin Monkey
Maranon White Fronted Capuchin Monkey
Pink River Dolphin
Red Howler Monkey
Red Mantled Tamarin
Red Tailed Squirrel
Silver Woolly Monkey
White Bellied Spider Monkey
Yellow Spot River Turtle
THINGS TO DO
Hiking Volcanoes
Birdwatching
Scenic Lookouts
Middle of the World
Amazon Rainforest Exploring
WHERE TO STAY
Tambopaxi Hotel was our favourite, the views of Cotopaxi and other surrounding volcanoes was amazing. Plus if you stay here inside the park you can hike to the restaurant before the crowds.
For the rest of the areas we found some amazing bnb’s like Cabanas Tamiju. Lots of choice depending on your taste.
Hotels range from standard to full on luxury.
WHERE TO EAT
We only ate out in Quito where we found a lovely Indian, Indian Tadka – not particularly cheap but lovely food.
COSTS
FUEL:-
2 USD per Gallon for diesel on average.
ALCOHOL:-
7 USD and up for a bottle of spirits in a supermarket.
1.50 USD for a bottle of beer in a supermarket.
Hi Carol no and Steve, I think this is your best blog to date.Fantastic photos of birds and insects I really like that photo of the coloured houses along the narrow .Amazeing you made your flight …Shona