Thailand – the centre and up
And so to the next leg and how a 5 hour journey (327km) turns into 9. Thailand’s road system is pretty good, I love the traffic lights that countdown to go or stop and the space bars on fast roads to warn you to keep that far apart (just so the looney drivers can lane swap at high speed). Currently they are building so many new roads it’s just astounding mostly elevated so there is a huge amount of work involved. What we did not know is that we were travelling on the start of a long weekend (100 days of mourning the last Kings passing) and start of school holidays. Everyone seemed to be going to Khai Yai National Park. Never travel at this time would be a good moto, absolute madness.
The other thing these days is that Tuk Tuk’s have almost disappeared in Southern Thailand, taxis are around but not anywhere near National Parks or small towns so if you want to visit a park you have to pay huge longer distance taxi fares and also organise a pick up in advance. The other ways to visit are organised tour, private guide or your own transport.
Considering parks like Kaeng Krachan (30km long) and Khao Yai (42km long, with other roads within also) are so huge, it is not possible to walk around or see much without transport.
Some people do bicycle, but that’s a bit past our ability with camera gear.
Our first day in Khao Yai was the Sunday – I have never seen so many people and so much traffic in a National Park, it was heaving. Mainly picnickers and selfie takers doing ridiculous poses rather than lots of interest in nature (and leaving copious amounts of rubbish behind). Surprisingly not many birds around – too many people but we did see Gibbons, Elephant and Northern Pin Tail Macaque.
We were staying outside the park the first 2 nights as trying to book park accommodation on-line is impossible for foreigners. Once there we managed to book. Staying inside saves the daily park entry fee and you see more when most people have left. One night 4 HUGE Malayan Porcupines came ambling past our cabin, amazing to see, I would never have expected them to be so big (don’t think stroking them would have been a good idea).
The accommodation is basic but adequate. The restaurant inside the park did great food, chicken and rice $2.
A couple of waterfalls in the park are really attractive (but very steep climb’s). Giant squirrels are lovely but usually high up, lucky us, on our way back from a waterfall in the park one ran out into the road and just sat there for a couple of minutes in full sun (not long enough for a photo though).
Our last night in the area was back outside the park and we had just seen a temple on a map that looked interesting.
Unfortunately it was already 5.20 and it shut at 6pm so we rushed off not expecting it to be so huge and so incredible. Very rushed visit, missed half of it but it was well worth going.
It is multi level built into a hillside. Every level is either carved, painted or sculpted. Walls, ceilings in and out. Plus many many statues and other ornamental features. Funny how you don’t hear about some of the best things. The link below has a little information on it and a great picture of a cave part we missed.
https://thailandtourismdirectory.go.th/en/attraction/82950
Nakhon Sawan our next stop to visit a lake for Migratory birds. Found a very brightly painted place to stay – not a tourist area at all, but obviously a popular spot for locals. The lake was a shock as all the walks were underwater – so was the campground, half the HQ building and you would have to wade to reach the restaurant.
At least we could still do boat trip on lake which is the best way to see most birds. It is very scenic, supposedly protected but still fished by locals. A great relaxing 4 hours and lots of birds too.
For a change of scene, the next place is a World Heritage Historic Site – Temples from 13th and 14th century.
Sukhothai Historical Park had only just come to my attention a few weeks ago while looking for something else. It is on route, so why not, looks really interesting. On arriving we find out that we are there in the middle of a festival – entry is free during festival, plus there are stalls at night, shows and fireworks.
The Festival did spoil some of the photo opportunity during the day as extra tents, wires etc around the place but on the whole it was good.
Not only the main site temples, but just driving around the area as a whole there are remains all over the place – the centre ones are just the most preserved. Great restaurant here run by a Brit and Thai– Chanda’s Historic Garden Restaurant. But like most places few customers as still not many foreign tourists around, although we are noticing a slight increase.
Brief 2 nights in a small town called Li to go to Mae Ping National Park, 2 great waterfalls, really stunning views and a few birds around.
Yet another change of pace, off to Chiang Rai for a couple of temples. On our way we passed Mae Kajan hot springs where a local seller sold fish and locals cooked them in the sulphur spring – Can not help thinking that they would taste of sulphur as the smell was strong.
The White Temple Wat Rong Khun) and the Blue Temple Wat Rong Suea Ten). WOW, the white temple is just stunning, so much work has gone into it and surprisingly for a Saturday it was not that crowded – quite a few people but I had expected a lot more.
A day trip to the Golden Triangle and a brand new Glass Sky Bridge only open about 5 days. Looks out over the 3 countries of Myanmar, Thailand and Laos. PACKED, for a weekday it was incredibly crowded – due to it being new I suppose, although you would only have known about it if you were local or accidently fell across a newspaper article in Thai like I did.
The interesting thing here is the amount of development on the Laos side – all funded by the Chinese we are told (Casino, hotels etc) and very little on the Thai side. (None on the Myanmar section).
The scenery in this part of the world is really lovely and a stop at a Raptor Roost on the way home was good too, lots of birds, plus 2 fake giant waterlily leaves among many real ones so that people could sit in them to take selfies…
On our way to Chiang Mai we passed an old temple next to some hot springs, very ornate in Cambodian style. We managed to see inside through a hole in the tin, lovely carving. Pity it is not being kept up or renovated or anything. Does not look touched in a long time plus couldn’t find out much about it.
A second chance at the Loi Krathong Festival with the main night being the day we arrive in Chiang Mai. Got a taxi into town – total madness, people everywhere, but so colourful.
Lanterns and other decorations over all the temples, bridges and just in the street.
Lots of street vendors selling colourful flower offerings. Some of these are incredibly ornate, so many floating down the river but they are organic.
The main lantern let off is no longer allowed due to environmental pollution – there used to be hundreds in the sky, now just a few still do it and planes are even cancelled for the evening. Firework display here was no-where near as good as the one in Sukhothai, partly as it was also not were advertised so we were in totally the wrong spot for a great view, but also shorter and not as impressive fireworks.
Very overpriced Tuk Tuk ride back – triple a normal day. (Tuk Tuk’s are still plentiful in Chiang Mai).
A birding trip to Doi Inthanon National Park (south of Chiang Mai), with a guide who we gave a lift to by chance in Mae Ping – great guide and amazing park.
So much birdlife, great scenery, many steps up to a temple and although a few too many people it did not spoil anything (but would be better if not a weekend).
We also heard about an old house with an interesting past “House of Success”, only recently turned into a boutique hotel after being derelict for years.
The story can be found with this link. https://www.chiangmaicitylife.com/clg/see-do/art/souvenir-falsehoods-follies-fate/
Our lovely accommodation hosts (The real centre of the universe – great place to stay) organised a local
guide to take us birding for a couple of days to National Parks North of Chiang Mai.
All was confirmed by email and seemed to be good. Guide picked us up on time, but when we got to accommodation late evening the “around 500 Baht” per night suddenly became 1000. Ridiculous as after we went to our room I googled the place to find real price through booking or agoda was 630 baht for same room.
Plus we were confused as only 2 nights booked but was dated as 3 in email. Will ask in the morning. First time I have felt ripped off in Thailand, guide is trying to say we only have 2 days not 3 – even though clear in email, he kept asking for more money for 3rd day which we refused. Mentioned hotel price too, no comment. Later that day, room suddenly booked for the 3rd night and e did not have to pay any extra for room or guide – obviously a try on.
Interesting first morning getting to the top and finding mine signs and patrolled border. Feels odd to be birding around mines and guns.
Nice parks, cut very short on both days at lunchtime due to rain. The second day birding was much improved on first as bumped into the guide we had in Doi Inthanon – much more knowledgeable than our current guide.
3rd day was not great as thick mist all morning so hard to see anything more than 1 metre, the joys of climate change and lots of rain in the dry season.
Back to Chiang Mai for a night and on to the next and final part of this journey.
BIRD & WILDLIFE IDENTIFIED:
Birds:
B-tel Chom Thong Resort
Asian Barred Owlet
Bueng Boraphet
Ashy Woodswallow
Asian Openbill
Barn Swallow
Baya Weaver
Black Drongo
Black Kite
Black-crowned Night-Heron
Blue-tailed Bee-eater
Bronze-winged Jacana
Chinese Pond-Heron
Common Kingfisher
Cotton Pygmy-Goose
Eastern Marsh-Harrier
Eurasian Moorhen
Eurasian Wryneck
Grey Heron
Grey-headed Swamphen
Intermediate Egret
Lesser Whistling-Duck
Little Grebe
Malaysian Pied-Fantail
Oriental Darter
Oriental Magpie-Robin
Pheasant-tailed Jacana
Pied Kingfisher
Plain Prinia
Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon)
Siamese Pied Starling
Spotted Dove
Streaked Weaver
White-throated Kingfisher
Bueng Yai
Amur Stonechat
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Asian Openbill
Black Drongo
Black-collared Starling
Blue-tailed Bee-eater
Brown Shrike
Cattle Egret
Chinese Pond-Heron
Common Myna
Greater Coucal
Green-billed Malkoha
House Sparrow
Intermediate Egret
Large-billed Crow
Little Egret
Malaysian Pied-Fantail
Olive-backed Sunbird
Oriental Magpie-Robin
Red Collared-Dove
Red-wattled Lapwing
Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon)
Siamese Pied Starling
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Spotted Dove
Streak-eared Bulbul
White Wagtail
Zebra Dove
Centre of the Universe
Asian Barred Owlet
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Common Myna
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Grey Wagtail
Olive Backed Sunbird
Scaly Breasted Munia
Sooty Headed Bulbul
Doi Ang Khang National Park
Ashy Woodswallow
Bay Woodpecker
Besra
Black Bulbul
Black Drongo
Black-collared Starling
Blue Rock-Thrush
Blue-throated Barbet
Blue-winged Minla
Brown Shrike
Chestnut-vented Nuthatch
Fire-breasted Flowerpecker
Flavescent Bulbul
fork-tailed swift
Giant Nuthatch
Grey Bushchat
Grey Wagtail
Grey-backed Shrike
Grey-eyed Bulbul
Indian White-eye
Japanese Tit
Little Spiderhunter
Mountain Bulbul
Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird
Oriental Magpie-Robin
Puff-throated Bulbul
Red-whiskered Bulbul
Richard’s Pipit
Rufous-backed Sibia
Scarlet Minivet
Short-billed Minivet
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Spotted Dove
Striated Bulbul
Stripe-breasted Woodpecker
Taiga Flycatcher
Verditer Flycatcher
White-throated Kingfisher
Doi Inthanon National Park
Ashy Bulbul
Ashy Drongo
Ashy Wood-Pigeon
Ashy-throated Warbler
Asian Emerald Cuckoo
Asian Stubtail
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike
Bianchi’s Warbler
Black Bulbul
Black-crested Bulbul
Black-headed Bulbul
Black-throated Parrotbill
Black-throated Sunbird
Black-winged Cuckooshrike
Blue Rock-Thrush
Blue Whistling-Thrush
Blue-throated Barbet
Blue-throated Flycatcher
Blue-winged Leafbird
Blyth’s Leaf Warbler
Bronzed Drongo
Brown-cheeked Fulvetta
Buff-chested Babbler
Chestnut-tailed Minla
Chestnut-vented Nuthatch
Common Buzzard
Common Iora
Common Tailorbird
Dark-sided Flycatcher
Eyebrowed Thrush
Fire-breasted Flowerpecker
Flavescent Bulbul
Golden-fronted Leafbird
Greater Coucal
Green-billed Malkoha
Green-tailed Sunbird
Grey Treepie
Grey Wagtail
Grey-backed Shrike
Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker
Grey-chinned Minivet
Grey-throated Babbler
Hair-crested Drongo
Hill Blue Flycatcher
Himalayan Shortwing
Hume’s Warbler
Indian White-eye
Japanese Tit
Large Hawk-Cuckoo
Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo
Little Pied Flycatcher
Little Spiderhunter
Long-tailed Minivet
Maroon Oriole
Martens’s Warbler
Mountain Bulbul
Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird
Olive-backed Pipit
Oriental Honey-buzzard
Oriental Magpie-Robin
Pied Bushchat
Pin-striped Tit-Babbler
Plumbeous Redstart
Puff-throated Babbler
Puff-throated Bulbul
Pygmy Cupwing
Rufous-bellied Niltava
Rufous-winged Fulvetta
Scarlet Minivet
Short-billed Minivet
Silver-eared Laughingthrush
Slaty-backed Forktail
Slaty-bellied Tesia
Slender-billed Oriole
Small Niltava
Snowy-browed Flycatcher
Spotted Dove
Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo
Streak-eared Bulbul
Streaked Spiderhunter
Striated Bulbul
Striated Yuhina
Stripe-breasted Woodpecker
Taiga Flycatcher
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch
Verditer Flycatcher
Wedge-tailed Green-Pigeon
White-capped Redstart
White-crowned Forktail
White-rumped Munia
White-rumped Shama
Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail
Yellow-browed Warbler
Yellow-cheeked Tit
Doi Pak Hom Pok National Park (Doi Lang)
Ashy Drongo
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike
Bay Woodpecker
Bianchi’s Warbler
Black Billed
Black Bulbul
Black Drongo
Black-backed Sibia
Black-breasted Thrush
Black-crested Bulbul
Black-throated Sunbird
Black-winged Cuckooshrike
Blue Whistling-Thrush
Blue-bearded Bee-eater
Blue-throated Barbet
Bronzed Drongo
Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush
Chestnut-flanked White-eye
Chestnut-tailed Minla
Cook’s Swift
Crested Finchbill
Dark-sided Flycatcher
Daurian Redstart
Davison’s Leaf Warbler
Details
Eurasian Jay
Flavescent Bulbul
Giant Nuthatch
Golden-fronted Leafbird
Golden-throated Barbet
Great Barbet
Grey Bushchat
Grey Treepie
Grey-backed Shrike
Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker
Grey-chinned Minivet
Grey-headed Parakeet
Grey-headed Parrotbill
Hair-crested Drongo
Hill Blue Flycatcher
Hume’s Pheasant
Hume’s Warbler
Japanese Tit
Jerdon’s Bushchat
Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo
Lesser Yellownape
Little Pied Flycatcher
Long-tailed Minivet
Maroon Oriole
Mountain Bamboo-Partridge
Mountain Bulbul
Mountain Imperial-Pigeon
Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird
Olive-backed Pipit
Oriental Magpie-Robin
Oriental Turtle-Dove
Pacific Swift
Puff-throated Bulbul
Red Junglefowl
Rufescent Prinia
Rufous-backed Sibia
Rufous-bellied Niltava
Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher
Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler
Sapphire Flycatcher
Scarlet Minivet
Short-billed Minivet
Siberian Rubythroat
Silver-eared Laughingthrush
Silver-eared Mesia
Snowy-browed Flycatcher
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Spectacled Barwing
Spot-breasted Parrotbill
Spotted Dove
Streaked Spiderhunter
Striated Bulbul
Stripe-breasted Woodpecker
Ultramarine Flycatcher
Verditer Flycatcher
Wedge-tailed Green-Pigeon
White-browed Laughingthrush
White-gorgeted Flycatcher
White-spectacled Warbler
White-throated Fantail
Yellow-browed Warbler
Yunnan Fulvetta
Khao Yai National Park
Ashy Drongo
Ashy Woodswallow
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Bar Winged Flycatcher-shrike
Black Drongo
Black and Buff Woodpecker
Balck Headed Bulbul
Black Naped Oriole
Black-winged Cuckooshrike
Blue-bearded Bee-eater
Blue-winged Leafbird
chestnut-headed Bee-eater
Claudia’s Leaf Warbler
Common Myna
Crimson Sunbird
Dark-necked Tailorbird
Great Hornbill
Great Iora
Green-billed Malkoha
Grey Wagtail
Grey-backed Shrike
Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher
Hair-crested Drongo
Hume’s White-eye
Large-billed Crow
Long-tailed Broadbill
Mountain Hawk-Eagle
Moustached Barbet
Orange-breasted Trogon
Oriental Pied-Hornbill
Pin-striped Tit-Babbler
Puff-throated Babbler
Red Collared-Dove
Red-headed Trogon
Red-wattled Lapwing
Scarlet Minivet
Shikra
Stripe-throated Bulbul
White-rumped Shama
White-throated Kingfisher
Yellow-vented Bulbul
Mae Faek Paddies
Amur Stonechat
Ashy Woodswallow
Asian Green Bee-eater
Asian Palm Swift
Barn Swallow
Black Drongo
Brown Shrike
Cattle Egret
Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
Chinese Pond-Heron
Common Myna
Eurasian Kestrel
Greater Coucal
Greater Painted-snipe
Grey-headed Lapwing
House Sparrow
Intermediate/Cattle Egret
Large-billed Crow
Little Egret
Oriental Magpie-Robin
Purple Heron
Red Collared-Dove
Red-rumped Swallow
Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon)
Scaly-breasted Munia
Siamese Pied Starling
Spotted Dove
White-breasted Waterhen
White-rumped Munia
Wire-tailed Swallow
Zebra Dove
Mae Ping National Park
Amur Stonechat
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike
Black Drongo
Black-headed Woodpecker
Black-hooded Oriole
Blue-winged Leafbird
Burmese Shrike
Collared Falconet
Common Iora
Common Myna
Golden-fronted Leafbird
Greater Flameback
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo
Grey Heron
Grey-headed Parakeet
House Sparrow
Indochinese Roller
Intermediate Egret
Large Cuckooshrike
Large-billed Crow
Lesser/Eurasian Kestrel
Little Egret
Malaysian Pied-Fantail
Oriental Honey-buzzard
Plain Prinia
Plain-backed Sparrow
Red Collared-Dove
Red-billed Blue-Magpie
Red-wattled Lapwing
Red-whiskered Bulbul
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Streak-eared Bulbul
White-crested Laughingthrush
White-tailed Robin
Zebra Dove
Mueng Kao Paddies
Amur Stonechat
Asian Green Bee-eater
Black-collared Starling
Black-winged Kite
Blue-tailed Bee-eater
Brown Shrike
Common Iora
Common Myna
Eurasian Hoopoe
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Freckle-breasted Woodpecker
Greater Coucal
Green-billed Malkoha
Grey Bushchat
House Sparrow
Malaysian Pied-Fantail
Oriental Magpie-Robin
Plaintive Cuckoo
Scaly-breasted Munia
Siamese Pied Starling
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Streak-eared Bulbul
Taiga Flycatcher
White Wagtail
White-breasted Waterhen
Zebra Dove
Nong Kra Hoh Marshes
Barn Swallow
Black Drongo
Blue Tailed Bee-eater
Bronze-winged Jacana
Chinese Pond Heron
Common Myna
House Sparrow
large Billed Crow
malaysian Pied Fantail
Rock Dove
Yellow Bittern
Zebra Dove
Nong Bong Khai Non-Hunting Area
Amur Stonechat
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike
Amur Stonechat
Asian Brown Flycatcher
Barn Swallow
Black Drongo
Blue-tailed Bee-eater
Burmese Shrike
Grey-headed Swamphen
House Sparrow
Lesser Whistling-Duck
Little Grebe
Long-tailed Shrike
Red Collared-Dove
Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon)
Scaly-breasted Munia
White-breasted Waterhen
Yellow Bittern
Yellow-browed Warbler
Wiang Nom Lom – Pied Harrier Hide
Amur Falcon
Asian Green Bee-eater
Asian Openbill
Barn Swallow
Black Drongo
Brown Shrike
Cattle Egret
Chinese Pond-Heron
Common Iora
Eastern Marsh-Harrier
Eurasian Kestrel
Greater Coucal
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo
Grey Heron
Lesser Whistling-Duck
Pied Harrier
Red Collared-Dove
Sooty-headed Bulbul
Spotted Dove
Streak-eared Bulbul
Taiga Flycatcher
White Wagtail
Wiang Yong Paddies
Amur Stonechat
Asian Openbill
Barn Swallow
Black Drongo
Black-collared Starling
Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
Chinese Pond-Heron
Common Greenshank
Common Myna
Common Sandpiper
Eurasian Black-winged Stilt
Eurasian Coot
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Garganey
Glossy Ibis
Great Egret
Green Sandpiper
House Sparrow
Intermediate Egret
Lesser Whistling-Duck
Little Egret
Northern Shoveler
Number observed: 1
Oriental Magpie-Robin
Pied Avocet
Pied Harrier
Red-rumped Swallow
Ruddy Shelduck
Scaly-breasted Munia
Siamese Pied Starling
Spotted Dove
Temminck’s Stint
Whiskered Tern
White Wagtail
White-breasted Waterhen
White-throated Kingfisher
Wire-tailed Swallow
Wood Sandpiper
Zebra Dove
Butterflies & Moths:
Cinnabar Moth
False Tiger Moth
Great Windmill Butterfly
Grey Count Butterfly
Orange Banded Pine Moth
Pantoporia Butterfly
Sailer Butterfly
Reptiles
Black Striped Frog
Brahminy Blind Snake
Brown Tree Frog
Cambodian Blue Crested Agama
Chinese Water Dragon
Speckle Bellied Keelback
Waggler’s Pit Viper
Wildlife
Asian Elephant
Asian Red Cheeked Squirrel
Barking Deer (Muntjac)
Broad Winged Damselfly
Carpenter Bee
Dragonflies
Finlayson Squirrel
Flat Backed Millipede
Gekko
Giant Black Squirrel
Grasshopper
Himalayan Striped Squirrel
Indochinese Ground Squirrel
Lantern Bug
Long Horned Orb Spider
Malayan Procupine
Northern Pig Tail Macaque
Northern Tree Shrew
Sambar Deer
THINGS TO DO
Thailand Parks
Bueng Boraphet – Birds / Scenery (lake trip and waterlilies)
Doi Ang Khang – Birds / Scenery
Doi Inthanon – Birds
Doi Lang (Doi Pha Hom Pok ) – Birds
Golden Triangle – Scenery
Khao Yai – Wildlife / Birds / Scenery
Mae Ping National Park – Birds
Thailand Temples – our top picks as there are many
Phra Prang Sam Yot, Lop Buri
Sukhothai Historic City, Sukhothai
Wat Similai Songtham, Khao Yai
Chiang Mai
Wat Bupparam
Wat Chedi Luang
Wat Chiang Man
Wat Duang Dee
Wat Lok Mali
Wat Phra Singh
Wat Phra That pha Ngao
Wat Sri Suphan
Wat Umong
Wat Upakhut
Chiang Rai
Wat Rong Khun
Wat Rong Suea Ten
WHERE TO STAY
Our favourite places
Rak Kun Resort 2 – Nakhon Sawan
The Centre of the Universe – Chiang Rai – http://therealcentreoftheuniverse.com/
The Frog – Khao Yai
So many options in Thailand, no need to book in advance unless you are fairly specific in what you want – the best places do get booked up at least a couple of weeks in advance – by that I mean the best cheap places, not high end.
The cheapest accommodation we had was 450 Baht per room per night, the most common cost would be around 700 – 900 Baht.
WHERE TO EAT
Chandlers Historic Garden Restaurant – Sukhothai
Radjarbar Indian – Chiang Rai
All National Park Cafes – amazing food and so cheap 40 Bhat for a good size curry and rice. In Khao Yai the best one was near the top, not the food court.
These were our stand out places, but plenty of good food all over and such variety of price and setting.
COSTS
NATIONAL PARKS:-
Very varied, a couple like Doi Lang are free but most are between 200 Baht and 400 Baht per person plus 20 Baht for your vehicle.
FUEL:-
42 Baht per litre for diesel on average.
ALCOHOL:-
100 Baht upwards for a can of beer in a restaurant.
100 Baht and up for a spirit in a bar or restaurant.
Supermarket beer – 65 Baht
Supermarket bottle of spirit – 270 Baht
Wine – can be found from 400 Baht (supermarket), but don’t bother as expensive and usually not good. In restaurant ridiculous price and usually gone acidic
Great blog and wonderful photos