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Miriam's Quetzal Cafe

A Month in Costa Rica

 

Wildlife and more

Arriving late at night we have one night in town, found a hotel that says it has lots of birds – not that we could look at night as we did not get there till around midnight.  First thing in the morning lots of birds, an owl nest, plus lots of other birds.


 

Also good conversation with other birders.  Great birds so a good start.

The Costa Rican people are just lovely, friendly and helpful.  The wildlife and birds are amazing and the scenery fantastic.

Food is not what we really like quite bland and boring. Ok if you like rice and beans, cheese with everything or deep fried food.  

Before continuing I should say that this blog is far more pictures than writing – they tell their own story about this country.  The Gallery of course has many many more interesting pictures.

Steve is much happier driving here as although there are still few road rules followed most drive slowly and carefully – a big difference to prior places.  BUT it is hard to do long drives as I do not think there is a straight road anywhere, very hilly and windy. Plus to add to the fun deep drainage ditches on side of very narrow roads, not good with Trucks and busses coming other way.

Staying at a BNB outside La Fortuna – the best pick as there was a huge variety of birds like the male and female Heron’s below carrying out their mating ritual.

Lots of small birds too, these woodpeckers were enjoying the coconut tree.


There were also sloths on the property. 


It was a lovely cabin and private too.

A night walk at the hanging bridges was interesting with many frogs and a couple of snakes, it was a bit short as guide seemed to be in a hurry which was a shame as could have spent a bit more time to get better photographs.

Arenal Observatory was amazing, great views of the volcano although we did not manage to catch it with no clouds at all.

Spent nearly all day here when expecting to only stay a couple of hours.  The birds here are incredible. 



Great walks through the forest with incredible vegetation and our second wildlife sighting of White Nosed Coati.

Next to Tenorio Volcano area, unfortunately no sighting/view of the volcano due to low clouds but we had a great walk / climb in the National Park – or at least I did, Steve piked out half way as it was very steep, slippery and rough. (balancing with his big lens was a bit tricky).  Half way along there is a very steep down to a beautiful waterfall. The pic below shows about 1/3rd of the path down.

The rest of the walk weaved through the forest and past varying blue holes and rivers.  Just beautiful.

Went to Tapir Valley Nature reserve hoping to see Tapir, not holding our breath as not guaranteed and almost only in the dark. Within 20 minutes of arriving guide gets call from owner, bingo large male Tapir (making funny faces) in the open in daylight, we were very lucky!


We then continued on night walk lots of bugs and frogs. Loved the guy below, so cute and colourful.

We found a bird garden in the area but when we got their it was all fenced off, luckily as we were leaving a guide and guest turned up and let us in – it was great for humming birds.


Off to Cano Negro (RAMSAR site) and Medio Queso which should be one.  2 very different wetland habitats close to each other but completely different.  Amazing scenery from boats, so peaceful and great birds too.Cano Negro scenery below and a couple of birds found here.



 Ducks in the early misty morning.



Medio Queso scenery above and below a couple of birds from this area.

This little Crake was hard to spot and photograph, best we could do.


The ferry at Medio queso was interesting, very basic just a wheel and hand crank.

More birding at La Selva plus a wildlife sighting of Agouti which was something I had not heard of but was quite cute.

The next place was not too far so we looked for somewhere to go on the way.  Finding a place that said it was a nature park we followed google but had to drive up and down a dirt road twice before someone stopped us and asked if we were looking for their place.  It is actually someone’s property that they have set up as a nature reserve with a bird hide.  Initially they said we could not go in as they had other guests coming and we should have booked.  Then they relented and allowed us to sit in hide but said not the rest of the tour in forest – but in the end they let us do that too. Incredible place and person, such an amazing job and his knowledge of finding things in the forest was great.



He showed us hummingbird nests that we would have walked by,


as for finding the tiny bats which were in a folded banana leaf, incredible.

One day for Rancho Naturalista as this is the premier birding spot, met some lovely people and had a great day. Brilliant guided walk around with other couple from Kent saw lots of new birds and great vegetation.

Moved on to another airbnb for a trip to Copal Reserve – we had booked a guide for this as apparently not possible to do alone.  On our way to the bnb he rang and cancelled as had a family emergency. 

Lucky it was a lovely BNB with lots of birds, this one is my favourite colour.


Decided instead to visit the volcanoes.  The one below is the 2nd highest Turrialba, taken from the highest.  This one is often smoking   – but not today.

Lovely day up above the clouds at Mount Irazu (3452 metres,11325.46ft above sea level) being clever and didn’t feel hot at first no hats, both sunburnt – Oops, you would think we would know better.

On the way down we had to drive for around an hour in really thick mist, you could see almost nothing and then due to slowness it got dark.  Not the most relaxing drive.

Hotel Quelitales was our next stop for their amazing birds and trails- unfortunately the cloud was down for the majority of the time – and the rest it rained. So heavily that the 2.5km hike in the forest was closed as too steep and slippery. Still the scenery was lovely and we did find a few birds in the brief gaps.


On to San Gerardo de Dota to try and find the Resplendent Quetzal.  Our cabin is lovely but cold at night (2433 mtres) and all the walks were incredibly steep. 


With the altitude and the steepness even 400 metres up was a slow struggle, and the 4km trail took a long time on the way back up.

We were also very lucky to see a pair of Quetzals who just happened to fly across while we were walking, unfortunately the tree they landed in was not in good light or a good angle.

Nearby our BNB was a cafe known for it’s feeders and birds.  So much fun watching the many hummingbirds fighting and flitting around,


along with of course many other birds like the one below – love his colours.


Lastly to the coast for a few days of not much – we thought.

One morning at 7am down to Marino Ballena National Park, 10 minute walk to entrance and a couple of km’s along the beach to the whale tail spit. 

We struggled badly on the way back, such a short walk for us but so very humid we were drenched and exhausted.  All we wanted was a shower – not to be, no water, apparently in all of Uvita town.  Swim instead. 
Mid Day – still no water, went to fill our water bottles from hotel drinking water supply – no water there either.  Reception “Go and buy some at supermarket” rudely.
Bed time 10pm, still wanting shower and it would be nice to flush toilet but still no water.

Off to Panama tomorrow, interesting way to finish our last day.

Don’t forget to check out the gallery – so many more photos, from Scenery, Fungi, Snakes, and everything wild (some maybe not around for much longer unfortunately, so many becoming short on numbers due to climate change and deforestation).

 
BIRD & WILDLIFE IDENTIFIED:

Birds:

Acadian Flycatcher
Acorn Woodpecker
Amazon Kingfisher
American Dipper
American Kestrel
American Oystercatcher
American Pygmy Kingfisher
American White Ibis
Anhinga
Baltimore Oriole
Bananaquit
Band-tailed Barbthroat
Band-tailed Pigeon
Bare-throated Tiger-Heron
Barn Owl
Barn Swallow
Barred Antshrike
Bat Falcon
Bay Wren
Bay-headed Tanager
Black Guan
Black Phoebe
Black Vulture
Black-and-white Owl
Black-and-white Warbler
Black-bellied Hummingbird
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck
Black-billed Nightingale-Thrush
Blackburnian Warbler
Black-capped Flycatcher
Black-cheeked Warbler
Black-cheeked Woodpecker
Black-collared Hawk
Black-cowled Oriole
Black-crested Coquette
Black-crowned Antshrike
Black-crowned Night Heron
Black-crowned Tityra
Black-faced Grosbeak
Black-headed Saltator
Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher
Black-headed Trogon
Black-necked Stilt
Black-striped Sparrow
Blue Dacnis
Blue-and-white Swallow
Blue-black Grassquit
Blue-grey Tanager
Blue-throated Goldentail
Blue-winged Teal
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Boat-billed Heron
Bright-rumped Attila
Broad-billed Motmot
Broad-winged Hawk
Bronzed Cowbird
Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer
Bronzy Hermit
Brown Jay
Brown Pelican
Brown-hooded Parrot
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner
Buff-rumped Warbler
Buff-throated Saltator
Cabanis’s Wren
Canebrake Wren
Canivet’s Emerald
Carmiol’s Tanager
Checker-throated Stipplethroat
Chestnut-capped Brushfinch
Chestnut-capped Warbler
Chestnut-headed Oropendola
Chestnut-sided Warbler
Cinnamon Becard
Cinnamon Hummingbird
Cinnamon-bellied Saltator
Clay-colored Thrush
Cocoa Woodcreeper
Collared Aracari
Common Black Hawk
Common Chlorospingus
Common Gallinule
Common Pauraque
Common Tody-Flycatcher
Costa Rican Warbler
Crested Caracara
Crested Guan
Crested Owl
Crimson-collared Tanager
Crimson-fronted Parakeet
Crowned Woodnymph
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Dusky-faced Tanager
Eastern Wood-Pewee
Emerald Tanager
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl
Fiery-throated Hummingbird
Flame-colored Tanager
Gartered Trogon
Golden-browed Chlorophonia
Golden-crowned Warbler
Golden-hooded Tanager
Golden-olive Woodpecker
Golden-winged Warbler
Great Blue Heron
Great Crested Flycatcher
Great Curassow
Great Egret
Great Green Macaw
Great Kiskadee
Great Potoo
Great Tinamou
Greater Yellowlegs
Great-tailed Grackle
Green Hermit
Green Heron
Green Honeycreeper
Green Ibis
Green Kingfisher
Green Thorntail
Green-and-rufous Kingfisher
Green-breasted Mango
Green-crowned Brilliant
Greenish Elaenia
Grey Hawk
Grey-breasted Martin
Grey-breasted Wood-Wren
Grey-capped Flycatcher
Grey-crowned Yellowthroat
Grey-headed Chachalaca
Grey-rumped Swift
Groove-billed Ani
Harris’s Hawk
Hepatic Tanager
Hoffmann’s Woodpecker
Hook-billed Kite
House Wren
Inca Dove
Jabiru
Keel-billed Toucan
King Vulture
Large-footed Finch
Least Grebe
Least Sandpiper
Lesser Greenlet
Lesser Scaup
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift
Lesser Violetear
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture
Lesser Yellowlegs
Lesson’s Motmot
Limpkin
Lineated Foliage-gleaner
Lineated Woodpecker
Little Blue Heron
Long-billed Hermit
Long-billed Starthroat
Long-tailed Silky-flycatcher
Long-tailed Tyrant
Mangrove Swallow
Masked Tityra
Melodious Blackbird
Middle American Screech-Owl
Mistletoe Tyrannulet
Montezuma Oropendola
Morelet’s Seedeater
Mountain Elaenia
Mountain Thrush
Muscovy Duck
Neotropic Cormorant
Nicaraguan Grackle
Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet
Northern Black-throated Trogon
Northern Emerald-Toucanet
Northern Jacana
Northern Rough-winged Swallow
Northern Tropical Pewee
Northern Waterthrush
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher
Olivaceous Woodcreeper
Olive-backed Euphonia
Olive-crowned Yellowthroat
Olive-throated Parakeet
Orange-billed Sparrow
Orange-chinned Parakeet
Orchard Oriole
Osprey
Pacific Screech-Owl
Pale-vented Pigeon
Palm Tanager
Peregrine Falcon
Philadelphia Vireo
Pied Puffbird
Pinnated Bittern
Piratic Flycatcher
Plain Xenops
Plain-breasted Ground Dove
Prothonotary Warbler
Purple Gallinule
Red-billed Pigeon
Red-breasted Meadowlark
Red-legged Honeycreeper
Red-lored Parrot
Red-tailed Hawk
Red-throated Ant-Tanager
Red-winged Blackbird
Resplendent Quetzal
Ringed Kingfisher
Roadside Hawk
Roseate Spoonbill
Ruby-throated Hummingbird
Ruddy Ground Dove
Ruddy-breasted Seedeater
Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush
Rufous Motmot
Rufous Mourner
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Rufous-naped Wren
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Rufous-tailed Jacamar
Rufous-winged Woodpecker
Russet-naped Wood-Rail
Sanderling
Scaly-breasted Hummingbird
Scarlet Macaw
Scarlet-rumped Tanager
Scarlet-thighed Dacnis
Scintillant Hummingbird
Semipalmated Plover
Semiplumbeous Hawk
Shining Honeycreeper
Short-billed Pigeon
Short-tailed Hawk
Silver-throated Tanager
Slaty Antwren
Slaty Flowerpiercer
Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush
Slaty-capped Flycatcher
Slaty-tailed Trogon
Snowcap
Snowy Cotinga
Snowy Egret
Social Flycatcher
Solitary Sandpiper
Song Wren
Sooty Thrush
Sooty-capped Chlorospingus
Southern Lapwing
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Spangle-cheeked Tanager
Spectacled Owl
Spot-breasted Oriole
Spot-crowned Woodcreeper
Spotted Sandpiper
Squirrel Cuckoo
Streak-headed Woodcreeper
Stripe-breasted Wren
Striped Owl
Stripe-throated Hermit
Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher
Summer Tanager
Sungrebe
Swallow-tailed Kite
Talamanca Hummingbird
Tennessee Warbler
Thick-billed Seed-Finch
Torrent Tyrannulet
Townsend’s Warbler
Tricolored Heron
Tropical Kingbird
Tropical Mockingbird
Tropical Parula
Turkey Vulture
Variable Seedeater
Vaux’s Swift
Violet Sabrewing
Violet-headed Hummingbird
Volcano Hummingbird
Volcano Junco
Western Cattle Egret
Whimbrel
White Hawk
White-bellied Mountain-gem
White-breasted Wood-Wren
White-browed Gnatcatcher
White-collared Manakin
White-collared Swift
White-crowned Parrot
White-eared Ground-Sparrow
White-necked Jacobin
White-ruffed Manakin
White-tailed Kite
White-throated Crake
White-throated Flycatcher
White-tipped Dove
White-vented Euphonia
White-winged Dove
White-winged Tanager
Willet
Wilson’s Warbler
Wood Stork
Wood Thrush
Yellow Tyrannulet
Yellow Warbler
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher
Yellow-bellied Siskin
Yellow-bellied Tyrannulet
Yellow-breasted Crake
Yellow-crowned Euphonia
Yellow-crowned Night Heron
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Yellow-headed Caracara
Yellow-naped Parrot
Yellow-thighed Brushfinch
Yellow-throated Euphonia
Yellow-throated Toucan
Yellow-throated Vireo
Zone-tailed Hawk

Butterflies & Moths:
Blue Morph Butterfly
Brown Longtail Butterfly
Cithaeras Butterfly
Heliconius Hecale Butterfly
Heliconius Ismenius Tiger Butterfly
Julia Butterfly
Malacite Butterfly
Mexican Silverspot Butterfly
Owl Moth
Pirella Butterfly
Polydamas Swallowtail Butterfly
Red Postman Butterfly
Sara Longwing Butterfly
Sphynix Moth
Whirlabout Skipper Butterfly

Creepie Crawlies & Fish
Bass Fish
Bromillian Spider
Cricket
Daddy Long Legs Spider
Dung Beetle
Euglossa Bee
Eulaena Bee
Fishing Spider
Funnel Web Spider
Golden Cobra Snakehead Fish
Hemiptera Bug
Holotrichia Beetle
Huntsman Spider
Katydid
Leaf Cutter Ants
Millipede
Orb Spider
Phrynus Operculatus Spider
Stick Insect
Tarantula
Tarantula Hawk (Scary spider)
Tropical Woodskipper Dragonfly
Wolf Spider

Reptiles
American Crocodile
Anole Lizard
Boulenger’s Snouted Frog
Brilliant Forest Frog
Brown Basilisk
Cayman
Common Basilisk Lizard
Emerald Basilisk
Eyelash Pit Viper
Green Iguana
Masked Tree Frog 
Nicaraguan Ornate Slider Turtle
Northern Cat Eyed Snake
Red Eyed Tree Frog
Salmon Bellied Snake
Sipurio Snouted Tree Frog
Strawberry Poison Dart Frog
Valliant’s Frog
Western Ribbon Snake
White Lipped Mud Turtle

Wildlife

Agouti
Fruit Bats
Honduran White Bat
Howler Monkey
Long Nosed Bat
Red Tailed Squirrel
Tapir
Three Toed Sloth
Two Toed Sloth
Variegated Squirrel
White Nosed Coati
Wild Horse

 

THINGS TO DO

Hiking – so many options in all the National Parks, from easy to challenging.  My favourite was Tenorio Volcano.
Bird & Wildlife Watching – Again everywhere, there are many different habitats so different birds in different areas, ditto the wildlife.  Our favourite for mammals was Tapir Valley.  Too hard to have a favourite for birds as there are so many amazing ones everywhere.
Snorkelling/Diving – Both the Pacific and Caribbean side have areas worth going.


 

WHERE TO STAY

Our favourite places are definitely airbnb’s.  Cheaper and so much choice.  We have found cabins in forests and rooms in town.  Really just a case of ploughing through and finding what suits you.

Our favourite two were a rainforest cabin outside La Fortuna, just amazing, very private, in the forest, birds, sloths and just a lovely cottage. And Quetzal Valley Cabins in San Gerardo de Dota, amazing view and well set up cabin with lots of birds around.

 

 

WHERE TO EAT

We are self catering 95% of the time so have no suggestions on places to eat, other than Soda’s are cheaper than tourist restaurants.

 

COSTS

NATIONAL PARKS:-
From 12 USD if doing a hike or self guided walk.

FUEL:-
2100 CRC per litre for diesel on average.

ALCOHOL:-
900 CRC upwards for a  can of beer in a restaurant.
7200 CRC for a 750ml Bottle wine in a supermarket

This Post Has One Comment

  1. shona

    Hi guys lovely bird photos thanks shona

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