INDIA, Delhi & Desert
Hitting a city is quite a change from the nature, partly great to be people watching and somewhere busy and thriving and partly wish to be straight back in peaceful greenery.
We got befriended by an odd man who said he ran a book shop nearby, strange as everytime we left the hotel he was there waiting for us, ok as he didnt want anything and he was friendly enough.
Police vehicles are a bit ordinary, i think they are personal vehicles used by cops.
With only one full day to explore we want to fit a lot in, there are some great sights in and around New Delhi.
First stop Jama Masjid, a mosque built in the 1600’s. Impressive.
Off to the Red Fort, this is a longer visit as lots to wander around here. Amazing architecture mind boggling how they built it.
Akshardham Temple was next but when we got there we found out you could not take photos inside and as it was also not cheap to go in we gave it a miss. I know it is very impressive inside but it is new and we prefer the old stuff.
Humayan’s Tomb was next, another very impressive building from the 1500’s.
On to Qatab Minar – our favourite, incredible ornate masonary pillar, 14th century iron pillar and buildings (ruins).
Lastly to Jantar Manta Observatory, interesting old structures for astronomical readings. Not 100% sure how they work though.
We leave Delhi behind for the desert and old forts, starting with Jodhpur, Mehrangarh Fort. Our homestay is in the old part of town (the blue city) with a great view over the fort.
No cars were allowed in the old city, so we had to get Tuktuk, roads are really narrow and they also had stalls set up everywhere. It really was a rabbit warren and easy to get lost as google didnt have the alleyways etc.
A great walk through the Desert Rock Park found lots of birds and more interesting views of the fort.
A scenic train ride to Jaisalmer was not so scenic but at least it is a cheap way to travel (2nd class this time). Straight out to a homestay in the desert for some wildlife and birding. Musa’s Desert Nest was a great homestay and Musa an amazing guide.
Very rural and basic lives in this area, traditional.
The scenery was very reminiscent of The Tanami Desert and Alice Springs surrounds (almost felt like home).
The birding was great, expecially seeing on one day 7 Great Indian Bustards flying overhead (only around 100 left in the world, wild) and then seeing 2 in the grass the next day.
We ended up with another group of birders making a promo video for our homestay so of course we are now in that too – from a drone. We kept seeing piles of rock seemingly dropped at random, apparently its the camel tour people buying a load of rocks after earning money from tours to build a house, takes them 4-5 years – pretty good going.
Almost no internationals come out here and so while driving around in the gypsey, kids were running from the fields to wave and say hello.
We discovered an interesting fact from the other group, that apparently the Raptors have learnt to fly high or at night over Pakistan. (They were getting killed in large quantaties and have learnt this survival tactic). Clever.
On our last evening there was a huge downpour and we got absolutely drenched, freezing in the back of a gypsy for an hour to get back to the homestay.
Note to self – do not forget Rain Poncho, it just seemed like no chance of rain when we left.
Quickly changed as we had to leave but then a sandstorm starts – lucky we were in a car when this happened.
Coming back into town and staying at a homestay within Jaisalmer Fort was really interesting.
This fort is believed to be one of only a couple of “living forts” in the world with nearly one fourth of the old city’s population still residing within the fort. It had a really good feel about it and we would have liked to stay longer.
Most amusing thing on this part of trip was broken down truck on railway crossing being pushed by another truck – not highly successfully, hope they got it off before the next train.
BIRD & WILDLIFE IDENTIFIED:
Birds:
Aleandrine Parakeet
Ashy Crowned Sparrow Lark
Asian Desert Warbler
Asian Green Bee-eater
Bank Myna
Bimaculated Lark
Black Crowned Sparrow Lark
Black Drongo
Black Kite
Bluethroat
Brown Rock Chat
Chestnut Bellied Laughing Dove
Common Babbler
Common Chiffchaff
Common Myna
Common Raven
Cream Coloured Courser
Crested Lark
Delicate Prinia
Desert Wheatear
Dusky Crag Martin
Egyptian Vulture
Eurasian Collared Dove
Eurasian Kestrel
Eurasian Wryneck
Great Cormorant
Great Grey Shrike
Great Indian Bustard
Greater Coucal
Greater Hoopoe Lark
Greater Short Toed Lark
Grey Francolin
House Crow
House Sparrow
Indian Peafowl
Indian Pond Heron
Indian Robin
Indian Silverbill
Isabelline Wheatear
Laggar Falcon
Laughing Dove
Lesser Whitethroat
Little Grebe
Little Swift
Long Legged Buzzard
Pallid Harrier
Persian Wheatear
Purple Sunbird
Red Naped Ibis
Red Vented Bulbul
Red Wattled Lapwing
Rock Dove
Rose Ringed Parakeet
Rosy Starling
Scaly Breasted Munia
Short Eared Owl
Small Pratincole
Spanish Sparrow
Spotted Owlet
Steppe Eagle
Striolated Bunting
Tawny Eagle
Tawny Pipit
Trumpeter Finch
Variable Wheatear
White Eared Bulbul
White Wagtail
Butterflies & Moths:
Common Tiger
Great Windmill
Tree Nymph
Reptiles & Amphibians
Spiny Tailed Lizard
kittering Frog
Wildlife
Desert Fox
THINGS TO DO
Delhi
Red Fort
Humayan’s Tomb
Jantar Mantar Observatory
Qutub Minar – our favourite
And many other old places, plus museums are all possible
Rajastan
Jaisalmer Fort, well worth a day to wander around.
Mehranghar Fort, Jodhpur. A good couple of hours for this.
Desert Rock Park, for birds, a nice walk and views of the fort.
Blue City, Clock Tower and Step Well, Jodhpur.
Thar Desert – Birding and wildlife
WHERE TO STAY
Our favourite places were
Hotel Saffron, Jaisalmer – double room 800 INR
Castle View Homestay, Jodhpur 1400 INR
Delhi – any around Connaught Square in your price bracket.
WHERE TO EAT
In general we ate at small stalls in Delhi and other places where food was not already included.
Many places are Veg only but there are Non Veg restaurants around – google works well for this.
COSTS
ATTRACTIONS:-
Very varied, But be prepared to pay around 600 – 800 INR for each place you visit in India (unless you are Indian, then around 35 INR.
FOOD:-
Cheapest we have had is100 INR but many can be up to 800 INR, average 360 INR.
ALCOHOL:-
750ml Bottle Spirits from 285 INR
330ml Kingfisher beer from 115 INR
woe interesting especially astronomy setup